In these 2 photos, I am indicating the existing bore on the bevel gear
to get it to run true in the four jaw chuck. This gear will be mounted on the
side-shaft and drive the governor. The indicator face didn't show up to well
in these photos. I think the flash on the camera washed it out...
The first photo shows the hole being bored out with a good sturdy boring bar.
I try to keep how far the boring bar has to be extended from the holder down to a
minimum to keep the bar as stable as possible. In the second photo the hole
is finished and the bore is now opened up to 1.501 to fit the side-shaft...
In these two photos I took a small cut-off of the side-shaft and tried it in the
hole. It fit perfect... Next I am going to drill and tap a 1/2 - 13 thread
in the side of the hub for a square head set screw...
Here in these 3 photos I have sand blasted the cross head. The day before we
got dumped on with snow and in the first photo you can see all the media that
I use for blasting laying on top of the snow. The media I use for sand blasting
is call "Black Beauty". It is a fine coal dust and it does a great job and is
cheap. The next 2 photos show the cross head all sand blasted...
With a lot of elbow grease and the piston sander I think I have the ways the
cross head will slide on done. They are nice and smooth and shinny except
for some pitting. The only way to get rid of the pits would be to machine
the ways some how. I don't think these pits will harm the babbitt and
if anything they will hold the oil...
I assembled the cross head onto the connecting rod to check the whole setup out
before pouring the babbitt for the cross head. Notice in the first photo a "V-block"
is being used to postion the connecting rod height and left to right movement...
In these 2 photos I am cutting a nut down for holding the cross head to the
connecting rod. Also I faced off both sides to true the surfaces up...
Here is the gear that goes on the side shaft all completed with a 1/2 - 13
threaded hole for locking it in position on the side shaft...
I set the head up in the mill to elongate 5 of the holes. When I had the head
made I had the holes equally spaced. You guessed it, I think they put the holes
in by eye because they weren't equally spaced. This didn't take to long to complete
and I wanted the holes to line up with the existing plates and engine base. I
guess the next time I will transfer the holes...
With a few minutes to spare from the cross head work I welded up the governor
housing which had a crack in it from the shaft that was inside it rusting and
swelling up. I cleaned it up and ground a vee in the crack area and welded it
with nickel rod. This photo was taken after welding and grinding of the weld
In the first photo my friend Stiles is heating up the cross head ways to get
all the moisture out before pouring the babbitt. In the second photo we took
the tourch and sooted up the ways so the babbitt wouldn't stick to it...
These 2 photos are of the little fixtures I made for pouring the babbitt on
the cross head. To seal the areas so the babbitt wouldn't leak out you can
see dumd dumb placed around the outside of the fixture. Note, the cross head
was also heated up to get all the moisture out. It is fun setting this all up
with it hot in the area you are trying to work in...
Here we are heating the babbitt up getting ready for the pour. Stiles is
skimming the impurities off the top of the babbitt in this photo...
The first photo is after the babbitt has been poured and I am waiting for it
to cool before disassembling the setup of the fixtures. I normally wait about
30 minutes for everything to cool down. We just had one minor leak which I plugged
with a small piece of dumb dumb. The second photo is after all the dumb dumb and
fixtures are removed, and some cleanup has been done to the babbitt. The piston,
connecting rod, and cross head all travel real nice together. The pour came out
Gas Mixer repair...
These 2 photos show an exspandable reamer in the holes for the throttle plate
pivot shaft. The original shaft that held the throttle plate was so worn out I don't
think the engine would have run to good sucking air around the shaft. What I am
doing here is line reaming the existing holes to open them up so I can press
in a couple of small brass bushings...
This is the throttle plate (right) which is made out of brass, and the link arm
(left) that is connected to the governor...
In this photo you can see the brass bushing pressed into the gas mixer housing.
I made the bushings on the lathe and left the ID about .030 smaller then the finish
hole size and turned the OD to have a .0015 interference fit with the mixer housing.
Before pressing the
bushings in I heated up the cast housing in the pivot hole areas to a dull red. Then
using a bearing inserting tool that fit the bushing, I tapped the bushings in place.
cooled down I then line reamed the bushings to fit a .625 diameter shaft. These
bushings really came out nice...
Well now with the new throttle plate shaft and mixer housing bushings in place I am
going to sand blast, clean up, and prime the housing. These 2 photos show what the
assembled throttle plate and link look like...
These are a couple of photos showing the mixer housing all sand blasted, wire
brushed, and primed...
This cover in the following photos goes onto the mixer housing and has a plate
with rubber rivited to it that shuts the gas off. I need to make a new one and you
can see here the new shaft which slides up and down in the small hole in the top
of this cover. This plate is also spring loaded with down force. As the piston
travels towards BDC, this plate lifts off under vacuum and lets gas into the
combustion chamber. The fresh air also comes in and gets mixed with the gas here
The load of oak for the skid arrives and is ready to be cut up. The wood is all
8 X 8 and various lengths. 2 are 12' long, 2 are 10' long, and the last one is
8' long. My friend Stiles let me build the skid in his garage because my shop is
filled up with the swan. This was a big help. You needed 2 guys to move these logs
Here you can see some of the pieces cut to length and the 45 deg angle cut on
the bottom rails...
Next we clamped the 2 bottom rails together and drilled the holes for the pull
bars. A good friend Ron Polle came over just to say hello and he wanted to help
out. In the last photo here he is manning the drill...
Here we started lining up the beams for the mitered cuts that will lock them
These next 2 photos show the beams all mitered and assembled but nothing
holding them together yet...
Now it was time to drill the holes for the 21" long tie rods that will hold
the skid together. These were made out of 7/8 threaded rod with a 3/8 thick
steel plate welded to one end. I drilled a 7/8 diameter hole in the plate and
weld the threaded rod on both sides of the plate. This makes them good and
In the first photo I am routing a square 4" X 4" X 1/2" deep for the steel
plate that will be inset into the bottom rail. The steel is 3/8 thick and
3 1/2 X 3 1/2. If you look on the tail gate of the pickup truck you can see
the 4 tie rods. The second photo is of the skid all bolted together with
the washers and nuts coutersunk into the top rails to miss the engine base
when it gets mounted...
Next I spent quite a few hours and a lot of sanding disks to sand the entire
skid. The oak really sands up nice and looks good...
Well I don't want to mention what I put on the skid to finish it but I use
used motor oil. I have done a few skids this way and after 5 coats the wood
will not soak up any more oil. This really protects the wood good and if the
engine is out side the rain beads right up and doesn't soak into the skid. I
also like to put a coat of oil on maybe once a year. With this skid almost all
completed, I can't wait to get the engine base mounted on it...
In this photo I am drilling a 1" diameter hole in a 3/8 thick X 3 1/2 X 3 1/2
steel plate. (4) of these will be used on each end of the pull bars and another
(4) will be used as big flat washers that will go on the outside of the skid
to hold the pull bar in place...
Here in these next three photos I have welded the 3/8 thick plates to some steel
tubing. The tubing is from an old hydraulic cylinder with a 3" O.D. and
a 3/8 thick wall. This is some pretty sturdy stuff. These will make up the pull
The next 2 photos are of the completed parts for the pull bars all primed and
ready to get a coat of black paint...