Here in these next (2) photos you can see work is starting on the second set of 15 HP Titusville Olin
connecting rod brass bearings. The Hendy Shaper is used to start squaring things up. See the
shopwork webpage #25, the very bottom of the page to see how the
first set of Olin brasses turned out...
Well I have had to change priorities and make a new running board for my truck. As you can see in photo
#1, the original running board is rusted out pretty bad. I am going to make a new one out of some heavy
wall pipe that should hold up a lot better then the original. Photos #2 & #3 show cutting out the 1/2"
think mounting plates on the band saw...
These (2) photos show cutting a 45 deg. angle on the ends of the pipe. All the pieces needed to make the
new running board are now cut out...
In these next (2) photos I am drilling holes in the mounting plates and the small blocks. These holes will
be used to hold the (2) parts together during welding. Eventually the holes will be drilled out and
tapped for a 5/8-11 thread...
Here in these (2) photos you can see welding the blocks to the mounting plates. Notice in photo #1 the
screw holding the (2) parts together. Photo #2 shows the welding all completed on the mounting
Photos #1 & #2 show drilling a 17/32 diameter hole in the mounting plates for a 5/8-11 thread. Photo
#3 shows tapping the holes. Photo #4 shows the mounting plates all completed and ready for welding to
The first photo shows welding the mounting plates to the standoff tubes. Photo #2 shows the standoff
tubes tacked in position and dimensions checked before final welding. Photo #3 shows the old and the
new running boards together. Photo #4 shows giving the completed running board a coat of primer and then
Here in these (2) photos you can see the new running board mounted on our 1998 Dodge 4X4 pickup. It's
nice not having to jump up into the truck...
The work is continuing on the 15 HP Titusville Olin brasses. These next series of photos are of truing
the bearing halves up on the shaper. Notice how the ruff surface of the casting starts to clean up as
.025 of material is removed each pass...
In photo #1, I was trying out the macro function on the digital camera and caught the cutting tool in
action. Notice the chip coming off the tool and other chips that are flying off. Photo #2 shows the
finish pass being taken on the back surface. Photo #3 is of the brass bearings all squared up and ready
for hole drilling...
Here in photo #1 you can see the mounting holes laid out on one of the bearing halves. Photo #2 &
#3 show drilling the mounting holes. I work up to, in three steps, a final hole diameter of .656 for
a 5/8 bolt. Photo #4 shows drilling the other bearing half...
Photo #1 shows a couple of .060 thick shims hammered out to put between the (2) bearing halves before
bolting them together. Photo #2 shows the bearing halves all bolted together and ready for the lathe
work. Photo #3 shows the first few passes being taken on truing up one of the bearing sides...
In photo #1 you can see the first bearing side all faced off. Photo #2 shows starting to true up the
ID of the bearings. This hole will not go all the way through. Just enough material is removed to be
able to indicate the bearings after flipping them over in the chuck. Photo #3 shows the bearing ID starting
to get cleaned up...
Photo #1 shows the first step in boring the bearing ID completed. Now it's time to flip the bearing
180 deg. Photo #2 shows the bearing flipped in the chuck and being indicated in using the bored hole,
bearing ID. Also notice the fixture plate now behind the bearing, mounted to the chuck. This plate
will be removed for boring through the entire bearing to finish the ID to size...
With everything indicated in and tightened up, facing begins on the second side (see photo #1). Photo #2
shows the second side of the bearing all faced, meaning the bearing is now to the proper width. Also,
the mounting surface for mounting the bearing to the connecting rod is to the final width. Photo #3
shows boring the ID to it's final size. Notice the fixture plate is removed so the boring bar can go
completely through the bearing. Photo #4 shows the 45 deg. chamfer on the ID, with all the lathe work being
completed for the bearing brasses...
Boring Video Clip
Below is a video clip of boring the bearing ID. The video is approximately 15 seconds long and is in
Windows AVI format with a file size of 626K... Boring Video Clip
Here in photo #1 I have set the bearings up in the drill press to drill and tap a 3/8-NPT thread for
oiling the bearing. Photo #2 shows tapping the 3/8-NPT thread. Photo #3 shows what a wiper looks like
screwed into the bearing for oiling...
Now to the vertical mill to drill and tap a 1/4-20 thread in the center of one of the bearing halves.
This threaded hole will mount a 1/8" thick steel strap that will lock the nuts against the flats to keep
them from backing off. Photo #1 shows locating and center drilling the hole. Photo #2 shows the completed
Photo #1 shows using the wiggler to locate the 1.004 diameter counter bore. Photo #2 shows using a .375
diameter center cutting end mill to plunge to a depth of .250. Photo #3 shows a .875 diameter end mill
that has milled to a depth of .250. Photo #4 is of a boring head with an end mill used for a cutting tool,
boring the hole to a final diameter of 1.004. The end mill gives a nice flat bottom counter bored hole..
Today I finished up the 15 HP Titusville Olin bearings and forgot to take a photo of the completed
brasses. After finishing up the counter bore, the oil grooves were put in with a high speed die grinder
and a ball type burr tool. Next the bearings were de-burred and all the dimensions were double checked.
The photo below is of the first set of 15 HP Titusville Olin brasses completed about 3 weeks ago. the set
just finished, looks just like these...
This next little project is of reworking some 15" car rims to fit the front hubs of my
1942 Ford 9N tractor.
In photo #1 & #2 you can see the center of the 15" rim cut out. After taking quite a few measurements
I designed up a small bracket / tab that will be welded to the 15" rim. Photo #3 shows a drawing of the
tab. (10) tabs are needed. (5) for each front rim. Photo #4 shows cutting some .1875 thick stock in the
bandsaw for the tabs...
Photo #1 shows what one of the cleaned up 15" rims will look like on the hub. Photo #2 is of (10) tabs
after cutting to size and de-burring. Photo #3 shows drilling the holes and putting a countersink on each
side of the hole. Photo #4 shows (2) sets of (5) tabs, ready for welding to the rims...
Here in photo #1 you can see the tabs mounted to the wheel hub and the 15" rim tacked in place. Next
the rim was rotated to make sure it ran true and adjustments were made. Photo #2 shows the tabs welded
on the front side. Photo #3 shows the tabs welded on the back side...
These (4) photos are of a small job, of boring a International clutch handle and pressing in a bushing.
Photo #1 shows boring the hole to a diameter of .872. Photo #2 shows the hole all bored to size. Photo
#3 is of pressing the bushing into the handle and photo #4 shows the completed handle...
Well the front rims are completed for the
1942 Ford 9N tractor. Photo #1 shows the rim
with a new valve stem installed. After a little wrestling to mount the 15" tires on the new rims, filling
them with air, and checking for leaks, they are finally mounted on the tractor. The next (3) photos
show what they look like mounted on the tractor and ready for action...