Also, Be sure to check out the
drawing and explanation for the Bovaird & Seyfang...
In these 2 photos you can see that I have almost all of the black rubber
like material removed from the combustion chamber. In the first photo, the
piece I thought was a steel plate wound up to be 1 1/2" thick babbitt. So then
I got out the tourch and relieved it in 2 spots...
Here is a photo of the babbitt when I got it out of the cylinder. Notice all
the steel and wire they put in the babbitt I think to reinforce it...
All the black rubber like material is all removed and the babbitt melted out.
Also I have almost all of the fittings and pipe plugs removed now. They took
a little heat from the tourch to get out...
These 2 photos are of looking down the bore of the cylinder before and after
wire brushing and grinding with a flexible disk sander. It is in really rough
shape but it is on its way to Joe Sykes' to get bored...
I started doing a little cleaning and soaking of the piston and wrist pin.
In the second photo I have removed the 2 set screws and lock nuts and am
now ready to put the piston in the press...
Here in these 3 photos you can see the setup for pressing out the wrist pin
and its removal. The pin didn't press to hard and I think it is because of
Joe Kelley's penitraiting oil that I used. I bought a bottle of it off him
at Coolspring this fall and it works great. Thanks Joe...
Boy, that is one ugly looking piston! I better get busy on it. Notice the 4
rings, three on the front of the piston and one on the rear (skirt) of the
Here is the piston all cleaned up and ready to go to Joe Sykes. As you can
see the piston is in pretty rough shape. After metal spraying and turning
I am sure it will look like brand new. In the third photo is a pile of rings
from the piston that I broke off. I will use them as filler rod for welding
Time for the wood to come off the flywheel. In these next three photos
you can see the wood being removed. Surprisingly enough, the flywheel
was not even rusted under the wood. I thought they were going to be rusted
and pitted real bad. There was enough grease and oil under the wood to
protect the flywheel. In the last photo is a pile of all the wood after
In this photo I rolled the cylinder over to remove the 2 plugs in the water
jacket. I wound up having to heat the water jacket up to remove the plugs.
They were being quite stuborn...
Well it was time to make a command decision and cut the crank-shaft down.
This was a tough one to make. With the crank-shaft being so long, it was
hard to have on the trailer. The crank-shaft wanted to stick out one side
of the trailer. Also it could be dangerous at a show if someones clothes
got wound up on the shaft. Here you can see the crank-shaft being cut
with the tourch. In the second photo you can see the pulley being slid off
and the bronze bearings being exsposed. They rode on a huge steel bushing
which was set screwed to the crank-shaft...
Here I fitted a piece of 3" pipe to the back blade on my tractor so I could
lift the cylinder up and take it out to my hoist. This worked out real good
except the front of the tractor got a little lighter then I would have
This is the cylinder up on the hoist and ready to back the truck under for
The cylinders and pistons are all loaded and ready for the trip to Corry,
Pa. to Joe Sykes. The other cylinder and piston in the truck are for a
15 HP Titusville Olin engine...
I was very lucky to have a friend who owns a 10 HP Bovaird & Seyfang
engine just like the one I am restoring. The valve chest, timing gear, and
governor assembly are missing on my engine. My friend was kind enough to
loan me his parts for me to copy. Here in these 2 photos you can see the
This is the timing gear and governor assembly with the last photo showing
the main plate eveything is mounted to. There is going to be a lot of work
ahead making all these parts. One thing I was able to find from another
friend was a governor assembly. Theres a few parts I wont have to
In these 3 photos I started melting the old babbitt for the main bearings
out of the base and bearing caps. There will be all new babbitt poured
for the mains. These propane tourches work real nice for melting out the
babbitt and also heating the babbitt for the pour...
What I did here was just melt all the babbitt from the mains and the bearing
caps into one big molten piece. Once it cooled I could lift it out of the
engine base in one piece...
This photo shows all the parts that I was able to get from a friend, so I wont
have to make these for the governor assembly...