Well I took the valve chest outside and went to work on cleaning it up. There
was a lot of build up inside the water jacket that had to be removed. I used some
old screw drivers and started chopping away at it. It took awhile but it all
came clean. When cleaning the valve chest I also noticed 2 cracks which I ground
out and welded up with some nickle rod...
Here in these 2 photos I have applied a coat of primer...
Next I needed to take the rear bearing strap down to 2 3/8" wide from 2 1/2". Now
this soon became a problem, I didn't have a vice big enough to hold the strap, so
I had to improvise. I cut a piece of 1/2 steel plate and drilled (2) 3/4 inch
diameter holes in it the distance of the keyways from the shaper table. Then I tack
welded the strap to the plate (see the first photo). Then after it was mounted to
the shaper table I then put in 2 adjustable jack screws to help stabilize the strap
sides (see the second photo). This setup worked great for cutting off 1/8 of an inch
from the strap. After it was to the finished size I took the die grinder and cut the
welds off and sanded the strap up...
This photo is of the rear bearing strap mounted on the connecting rod. Now I have to
drill the mounting holes and cut the rectangle for the tightening wedge. That should
In these 3 photos I have taken a used brass bearing half and built it up with wood
and fiberglass to get 2 halves cast up out of bronze. These will be the main
bearings that connect the crank shaft and connecting rod. They were missing from
the engine when I got it along with the bearing strap...
Below I am grinding the valve seat on the intake valve chest. This seat was rusted
up real good so I cut it with a 2 blade cutter first using the new guide to locate
everything. After I finish with the grinding I will then lapp the valve in with
some valve grinding compound...
This is a photo looking into the gas mixer housing. You can see the seats for both
the air (outer) and gas (center) all machined up and ready for lapping. This was done
with a fly-cutter in the vertical mill...
Here in this photo the rings finally make it onto the piston. I used about 4 hose
clamps to compress the rings and then pushed the piston into the cylinder sleeve
I coated the gasket surfaces with "Indian Head Gasket Shellac" and installed
the valve chest onto the water jacket and cylinder sleeve. In the second photo
I am letting the shellac dry good before installing the valve chest...
In these next 3 photos you can see the valve chest is now mounted on the engine.
I cut out some flat washers, (with the tourch) out of some flat steel I had laying
around and have the valve chest held on by 2 of the (6) tie rods and an upper and
lower, external to the water jacket, bolts. The engine is really starting to take
shape now. Next I will be installing the intake valve chest on the side shaft side
and then get ready to pour the babbitt for the 3 side shaft bearing supports...
In these 3 photos you can see the intake valve and seat are finally completed.
The seat was in pretty bad shape and needed to be recut. A lot of time was also
spent grinding the seat and then lapping in the valve. As you can see from the
photos the seat and the valve came out great...
In these 3 photos you can see the intake valve chest going on the engine. In the
first photo you can see the studs that will hold the valve chest on. Then in the
next photo you can see the gasket cut and valve chest on the studs. In the last
photo the valve chest is pushed almost all the way on and getting ready for the
Here in these next 2 photos you can see the intake valve chest all mounted with
the hot tube in the top plate. To the right of the valve chest is the gas mixer.
The little lever on the gas mixer is the throttle. On the bracket that is mounted
to the far right of the mixer, the governor mounts...
Well with all the side shaft mounting brackets in place and the side shaft located
in position it is time to pour some babbitt. First I must make some shims for the
bearing caps though...
Well I needed to make a couple of tapered keys that adjust the bearing clearance of the
2 piece bearings. One for the cross-head and the other for the main bearings on the crank
shaft. In these two photos you can see the setup I used to complete the 7 deg. locking
angle on the key. This was done on the 12" Hendy shaper...
In this photo I have taken a couple of light passes to true up the saw cut before really
hogging the material off. You can see in the photo where the material is being removed.
(The high areas) There is a total of around .110 of material to remove to get to the
This is a photo showing the shaping of the 7 deg. angle all completed. All the corners
need to be chamfered for the key to be completed...
Well I took some time out from working on the swan to put up an outside work bench. I
got this from a friend in town whos uncle had a blacksmith shop and this was one of the
work benches from it. It is 4" X 30" X 10' long, hunk of solid maple. It is not glued up.
Can you imagine the size maple tree this came from. Well back to the swan...
Here in this photo you can see a collar I made that will keep the side shaft from moving
front to rear. The collar is right in front of the bearing support. You also can see the
gear on the side shaft that will drive the governor...
In this photo I have the governor gear set up in the drill press to drill a .312 diameter
hole for a 3/8-16 thread. This will be for a set screw to lock the gear onto the governor
I needed to remove about .750 of an inch off of the height of the gear. This was done in
the power bandsaw and then taken to the lathe for facing to the finished size...
The first photo shows the governor gear set up in the lathe just after getting the gear
and shaft to run true in the four jaw chuck. In the second photo, after the gear has been
faced off, I needed to turn the OD down .180 total. Notice all the work was done to the
governor gear with it mounted on a mandrel. This helped to hold the gear real stable
through all the machining processes...