of the
25 HP Swan Restoration
Continued...
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for more of the 25 HP Swan Restoration project.
The first photo shows the hole being bored out with a good sturdy boring bar. I try to keep how far the boring bar has to be extended from the holder down to a minimum to keep the bar as stable as possible. In the second photo the hole is finished and the bore is now opened up to 1.501 to fit the side-shaft...
In these two photos I took a small cut-off of the side-shaft and tried it in the hole. It fit perfect... Next I am going to drill and tap a 1/2 - 13 thread in the side of the hub for a square head set screw...
Here in these 3 photos I have sand blasted the cross head. The day before we got dumped on with snow and in the first photo you can see all the media that I use for blasting laying on top of the snow. The media I use for sand blasting is call "Black Beauty". It is a fine coal dust and it does a great job and is cheap. The next 2 photos show the cross head all sand blasted...
With a lot of elbow grease and the piston sander I think I have the ways the cross head will slide on done. They are nice and smooth and shinny except for some pitting. The only way to get rid of the pits would be to machine the ways some how. I don't think these pits will harm the babbitt and if anything they will hold the oil...
I assembled the cross head onto the connecting rod to check the whole setup out before pouring the babbitt for the cross head. Notice in the first photo a "V-block" is being used to postion the connecting rod height and left to right movement...
In these 2 photos I am cutting a nut down for holding the cross head to the connecting rod. Also I faced off both sides to true the surfaces up...
Here is the gear that goes on the side shaft all completed with a 1/2 - 13 threaded hole for locking it in position on the side shaft...
I set the head up in the mill to elongate 5 of the holes. When I had the head made I had the holes equally spaced. You guessed it, I think they put the holes in by eye because they weren't equally spaced. This didn't take to long to complete and I wanted the holes to line up with the existing plates and engine base. I guess the next time I will transfer the holes...
With a few minutes to spare from the cross head work I welded up the governor housing which had a crack in it from the shaft that was inside it rusting and swelling up. I cleaned it up and ground a vee in the crack area and welded it with nickel rod. This photo was taken after welding and grinding of the weld ...
In the first photo my friend Stiles is heating up the cross head ways to get all the moisture out before pouring the babbitt. In the second photo we took the tourch and sooted up the ways so the babbitt wouldn't stick to it...
These 2 photos are of the little fixtures I made for pouring the babbitt on the cross head. To seal the areas so the babbitt wouldn't leak out you can see dumd dumb placed around the outside of the fixture. Note, the cross head was also heated up to get all the moisture out. It is fun setting this all up with it hot in the area you are trying to work in...
Here we are heating the babbitt up getting ready for the pour. Stiles is skimming the impurities off the top of the babbitt in this photo...
The first photo is after the babbitt has been poured and I am waiting for it to cool before disassembling the setup of the fixtures. I normally wait about 30 minutes for everything to cool down. We just had one minor leak which I plugged with a small piece of dumb dumb. The second photo is after all the dumb dumb and fixtures are removed, and some cleanup has been done to the babbitt. The piston, connecting rod, and cross head all travel real nice together. The pour came out excellent!...
Gas Mixer repair...
These 2 photos show an exspandable reamer in the holes for the throttle plate pivot shaft. The original shaft that held the throttle plate was so worn out I don't think the engine would have run to good sucking air around the shaft. What I am doing here is line reaming the existing holes to open them up so I can press in a couple of small brass bushings...
This is the throttle plate (right) which is made out of brass, and the link arm (left) that is connected to the governor...
In this photo you can see the brass bushing pressed into the gas mixer housing. I made the bushings on the lathe and left the ID about .030 smaller then the finish hole size and turned the OD to have a .0015 interference fit with the mixer housing. Before pressing the bushings in I heated up the cast housing in the pivot hole areas to a dull red. Then using a bearing inserting tool that fit the bushing, I tapped the bushings in place. After everything cooled down I then line reamed the bushings to fit a .625 diameter shaft. These bushings really came out nice...
Well now with the new throttle plate shaft and mixer housing bushings in place I am going to sand blast, clean up, and prime the housing. These 2 photos show what the assembled throttle plate and link look like...
These are a couple of photos showing the mixer housing all sand blasted, wire brushed, and primed...
This cover in the following photos goes onto the mixer housing and has a plate with rubber rivited to it that shuts the gas off. I need to make a new one and you can see here the new shaft which slides up and down in the small hole in the top of this cover. This plate is also spring loaded with down force. As the piston travels towards BDC, this plate lifts off under vacuum and lets gas into the combustion chamber. The fresh air also comes in and gets mixed with the gas here ...
The load of oak for the skid arrives and is ready to be cut up. The wood is all 8 X 8 and various lengths. 2 are 12' long, 2 are 10' long, and the last one is 8' long. My friend Stiles let me build the skid in his garage because my shop is filled up with the swan. This was a big help. You needed 2 guys to move these logs arround...
Here you can see some of the pieces cut to length and the 45 deg angle cut on the bottom rails...
Next we clamped the 2 bottom rails together and drilled the holes for the pull bars. A good friend Ron Polle came over just to say hello and he wanted to help out. In the last photo here he is manning the drill...
Here we started lining up the beams for the mitered cuts that will lock them together...
These next 2 photos show the beams all mitered and assembled but nothing holding them together yet...
Now it was time to drill the holes for the 21" long tie rods that will hold the skid together. These were made out of 7/8 threaded rod with a 3/8 thick steel plate welded to one end. I drilled a 7/8 diameter hole in the plate and weld the threaded rod on both sides of the plate. This makes them good and strong...
In the first photo I am routing a square 4" X 4" X 1/2" deep for the steel plate that will be inset into the bottom rail. The steel is 3/8 thick and 3 1/2 X 3 1/2. If you look on the tail gate of the pickup truck you can see the 4 tie rods. The second photo is of the skid all bolted together with the washers and nuts coutersunk into the top rails to miss the engine base when it gets mounted...
Next I spent quite a few hours and a lot of sanding disks to sand the entire skid. The oak really sands up nice and looks good...
Well I don't want to mention what I put on the skid to finish it but I use used motor oil. I have done a few skids this way and after 5 coats the wood will not soak up any more oil. This really protects the wood good and if the engine is out side the rain beads right up and doesn't soak into the skid. I also like to put a coat of oil on maybe once a year. With this skid almost all completed, I can't wait to get the engine base mounted on it...
In this photo I am drilling a 1" diameter hole in a 3/8 thick X 3 1/2 X 3 1/2 steel plate. (4) of these will be used on each end of the pull bars and another (4) will be used as big flat washers that will go on the outside of the skid to hold the pull bar in place...
Here in these next three photos I have welded the 3/8 thick plates to some steel tubing. The tubing is from an old hydraulic cylinder with a 3" O.D. and a 3/8 thick wall. This is some pretty sturdy stuff. These will make up the pull bars...
The next 2 photos are of the completed parts for the pull bars all primed and ready to get a coat of black paint...
See
Page 1, Page 2, Page 3, Page 4, Page 5, Page 6, Page 7, Page 8, Page 9, Page 10,
for more of the 25 HP Swan Restoration project.
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