Here is the flywheels and crankshaft mounted in the base with the new
babbitt bearings poured, scraped, and oil grooved. The wheels rotate nice now
and turn over real easy. They also are nice and true which is something
everyone worries about when working on a project like this...
Disassembly of the cross-head and pressing out of cross-head connecting
rod pivot pin...
This first photo is of a square piece of flat stock which will be the new
intake valve when completed. I am boring a 3/4" diameter hole in it to
press in the stem. In the next photo, it is welded to a 3/4" diameter rod (stem)
and I have cut the corners off with the torch and am ready to put it back in
the lathe for turning...
These couple of photos where taken at different stages of turning the
Here the valve is in its new home. I haven't turned or ground the 45 deg.
angle yet because I want to wait till I have the seat all cleaned up. This
way I can make the diameters come out (match up) between the seat and the
Well, for the next part of the project I need to make (6) 38 1/2" long
studs for bolting the cylinder, sleeve, and head together. They are
threaded on each end with a 1 1/4" x 7 thread 3 1/2" long. Here in the
first photo you can see a piece set up in the lathe and in the second
photo are the other (5) pieces waiting to be threaded...
After many passes with the tool bit the threads have taken shape. They
came out real good. In the first photo the threads are a little brown
from the cutting oil I put on them before screwing a nut on. In the
second photo you can see a nut screwed onto the threads making sure
In these next 2 photos you can see the 6 tie rods all completed with the
threads on both ends. There is one of the original tie rods also in the
photos and you can see what bad shape they are in. Making these new tie
rods was time consuming but well worth it, besides its fun...
The next part that needs repair is the water jacket. You can see in the
first photo that the crack runs from one end to the other. Believe it or
not, this crack makes this huge casting weak. I vee'd the crack real deep
and have started to weld it together with nickel rod. I used 2 straps
to squeeze the water jacket together and close the crack up...
In the first photo here the outside is all welded with three passes
completed. The first pass was in the bottom of the ground vee and the
other 2 were parallel to the first filling in the rest of the vee
groove. The next photo shows the deep vee groove on the inside ready
for welding. This also required three passes to fill. This process was
quite time consuming. I would put down about 1 inch of weld and then
skip to another area. Sometimes I would wait for the water jacket to
cool down before continuing. I would wait till I could touch the welded
area before proceeding. This method was used because I didn't
preheat the casting (water jacket)...
The first photo here is a close-up of the vee groove ground on the inside
of the water jacket. Then in the next photo you can see the finished
product. The welds both inside and out are ground down and a thin layer
Devcon which will get sanded and primed...
In these 2 photos the water jacket is all sanded, wire brushed and
ready for the first coat of primer. I also wipe the surface to be primed
with mineral sprits to get any oils or dust off...
Here are just a couple of photos showing the water jacket with the
first coat of primer on. This way the cast iron wont rust
where it was sanded...
Well I broke out the sand blaster and went to town on the side-shaft
mounting brackets and some other cover plates. For getting old grease
and rust off the sand blaster works great. It can get a little messy
though. I do all my blasting outside away from the shop...
One thing about cast iron is that after you sand blast it you have to
prime it right away. All you have to do is look at it and it will rust.
After I sand blast, I wipe the part down real good with minerial
spirits (paint thinner), and then apply a coat of primer. Here in the
following photos you can see the brakets and cover plate all primed...
For the side-shaft I purchased a piece of stainless steel 1 1/2 diameter
by 12' long. I only needed 8' for the side-shaft but 12' was the length
they had available. In these next photos I set the side-shaft up in the
mill, to mill in a .375 wide X .188 deep X 3 1/2" long slot for the
side-shaft drive gear.
I cut the shaft to 8' 6" long and milled the slot. I left the shaft 6" longer
just in case I made a mistake. The slot came out great...
In these next 2 photos you can see the gear mounted on the side-shaft, and
then in the last photo you can see the side-shaft mounting brackets mounted
to the engine base. There is a third side-shaft mounting bracket but it is
located on the intake valve chest which is not mounted on the engine yet
The next 3 photos here are of the side-shaft set on 2 of the support
brackets showing what it is going to look like mounted on the engine.
With the side-shaft being made out of stainless steel I should never
have to worry about it rusting...
Well the governor is in pretty rough shape and needs a lot of work. Here
you can see I have started taking it a part and being real careful not to
break anything. I have been using a lot of penitrating oil and the heat
wrench to get things a part. Also I sand blasted around the pins
and pivot points. This is helping in getting things apart.
Notice all the brass on the governor. Before I did some
of the sand blasting eveything looked like rusted cast iron. But after
sand blasting I found a lot of brass on the governor...
In these next 4 photos you can see various stages of getting the governor
apart. This was a little on the tricky. As big as this governor is, it is still
kind of fragile. I didn't want to break anything, so I used the heat
wrench, drill, and a lot of penitrating oil
to dismantel the governor safely. The last part to be removed
is the shaft that runs through the main governor housing. You can see
an end view of the shaft in the last photo...
Here in these 2 photos you can see most of the governor parts all sand
blasted and preped for a coat of primer. Notice how nice the brass parts
cleaned up. When I first saw this governor I thought there was no way it
was going to come apart. A little time, patients, and heat and the the
governor is coming a long...
Next I applied a coat of primer to the governor parts just sand blasted.
I wound up having parts hanging all over the shop to dry...