of the
25 HP Swan Restoration
Continued...
See
Page 1, Page 2, Page 3, Page 4, Page 5, Page 6, Page 7, Page 8, Page 9, Page 10,
for more of the 25 HP Swan Restoration project.
Disassembly of the cross-head and pressing out of cross-head connecting rod pivot pin...
This first photo is of a square piece of flat stock which will be the new intake valve when completed. I am boring a 3/4" diameter hole in it to press in the stem. In the next photo, it is welded to a 3/4" diameter rod (stem) and I have cut the corners off with the torch and am ready to put it back in the lathe for turning...
These couple of photos where taken at different stages of turning the valve...
Here the valve is in its new home. I haven't turned or ground the 45 deg. angle yet because I want to wait till I have the seat all cleaned up. This way I can make the diameters come out (match up) between the seat and the valve...
Well, for the next part of the project I need to make (6) 38 1/2" long studs for bolting the cylinder, sleeve, and head together. They are threaded on each end with a 1 1/4" x 7 thread 3 1/2" long. Here in the first photo you can see a piece set up in the lathe and in the second photo are the other (5) pieces waiting to be threaded...
After many passes with the tool bit the threads have taken shape. They came out real good. In the first photo the threads are a little brown from the cutting oil I put on them before screwing a nut on. In the second photo you can see a nut screwed onto the threads making sure everything fits...
In these next 2 photos you can see the 6 tie rods all completed with the threads on both ends. There is one of the original tie rods also in the photos and you can see what bad shape they are in. Making these new tie rods was time consuming but well worth it, besides its fun...
The next part that needs repair is the water jacket. You can see in the first photo that the crack runs from one end to the other. Believe it or not, this crack makes this huge casting weak. I vee'd the crack real deep and have started to weld it together with nickel rod. I used 2 straps to squeeze the water jacket together and close the crack up...
In the first photo here the outside is all welded with three passes completed. The first pass was in the bottom of the ground vee and the other 2 were parallel to the first filling in the rest of the vee groove. The next photo shows the deep vee groove on the inside ready for welding. This also required three passes to fill. This process was quite time consuming. I would put down about 1 inch of weld and then skip to another area. Sometimes I would wait for the water jacket to cool down before continuing. I would wait till I could touch the welded area before proceeding. This method was used because I didn't preheat the casting (water jacket)...
The first photo here is a close-up of the vee groove ground on the inside of the water jacket. Then in the next photo you can see the finished product. The welds both inside and out are ground down and a thin layer of Devcon which will get sanded and primed...
In these 2 photos the water jacket is all sanded, wire brushed and ready for the first coat of primer. I also wipe the surface to be primed with mineral sprits to get any oils or dust off...
Here are just a couple of photos showing the water jacket with the first coat of primer on. This way the cast iron wont rust where it was sanded...
Well I broke out the sand blaster and went to town on the side-shaft mounting brackets and some other cover plates. For getting old grease and rust off the sand blaster works great. It can get a little messy though. I do all my blasting outside away from the shop...
One thing about cast iron is that after you sand blast it you have to prime it right away. All you have to do is look at it and it will rust. After I sand blast, I wipe the part down real good with minerial spirits (paint thinner), and then apply a coat of primer. Here in the following photos you can see the brakets and cover plate all primed...
For the side-shaft I purchased a piece of stainless steel 1 1/2 diameter by 12' long. I only needed 8' for the side-shaft but 12' was the length they had available. In these next photos I set the side-shaft up in the mill, to mill in a .375 wide X .188 deep X 3 1/2" long slot for the side-shaft drive gear. I cut the shaft to 8' 6" long and milled the slot. I left the shaft 6" longer just in case I made a mistake. The slot came out great...
In these next 2 photos you can see the gear mounted on the side-shaft, and then in the last photo you can see the side-shaft mounting brackets mounted to the engine base. There is a third side-shaft mounting bracket but it is located on the intake valve chest which is not mounted on the engine yet ...
The next 3 photos here are of the side-shaft set on 2 of the support brackets showing what it is going to look like mounted on the engine. With the side-shaft being made out of stainless steel I should never have to worry about it rusting...
Well the governor is in pretty rough shape and needs a lot of work. Here you can see I have started taking it a part and being real careful not to break anything. I have been using a lot of penitrating oil and the heat wrench to get things a part. Also I sand blasted around the pins and pivot points. This is helping in getting things apart. Notice all the brass on the governor. Before I did some of the sand blasting eveything looked like rusted cast iron. But after sand blasting I found a lot of brass on the governor...
In these next 4 photos you can see various stages of getting the governor apart. This was a little on the tricky. As big as this governor is, it is still kind of fragile. I didn't want to break anything, so I used the heat wrench, drill, and a lot of penitrating oil to dismantel the governor safely. The last part to be removed is the shaft that runs through the main governor housing. You can see an end view of the shaft in the last photo...
Here in these 2 photos you can see most of the governor parts all sand blasted and preped for a coat of primer. Notice how nice the brass parts cleaned up. When I first saw this governor I thought there was no way it was going to come apart. A little time, patients, and heat and the the governor is coming a long...
Next I applied a coat of primer to the governor parts just sand blasted. I wound up having parts hanging all over the shop to dry...
See
Page 1, Page 2, Page 3, Page 4, Page 5, Page 6, Page 7, Page 8, Page 9, Page 10,
for more of the 25 HP Swan Restoration project.
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