Now that the head (valve chest) is off the cylinder sleeve I took it
over to the press and set it up to press the piston out. The piston was
pushed up into the valve chest about 2 inches and it was stuck there
pretty good. When the engine is running the piston should never make it
into the valve chest bore. She was in an unchartered area. I soaked her up
good and applied quite a bit of heat. Then I put the power to her and after
a few good pumps the piston started to move. This sounds a lot easier here
then it really was. Note in the second photo here how short the piston is.
It almost has some steam engine simularities...
This photo was taken after lowering the base and rolling the flywheels
and crankshaft back. It was my first look at the babbitt for the mains.
After taking a lot of measurements I decided to melt the babbitt out and
repour the mains. This would ensure that everything is correct and it would
be just like new again...
These next 3 photos are of the side-shaft bearing caps that I had casted up.
Two of the side shaft-bearing caps were missing and and I used the third
one as a pattern. In the first photo you see the original one in black and
the 2 new caps as I received them from the foundry. In the next photo I set
them up on the mill and made the mounting surfaces flat and true. The third
photo is of drilling the mounting holes...
In this photo I have the intake valve chest in the press and after
a lot of soaking and heat pressed the valve out. Again it all sounds
a lot easier here then it really was...
Well here it is early December and the temperature has gotten up to 65
degrees. I couldn't pass it up so I winched the base onto the trailer and
spent 2 days wire brushing, sanding, and grinding. After I was happy with
the job, I winched the base back into the heated shop and put a coat of
primer on her. This would keep it from rusting and protect certain areas.
There still are some areas that need work like the cross-head slides that
I will machine up later. Also I didn't prime to much of the rear mains
area as I need to heat this up when I pour the new babbitt for the mains..
In this photo I have started to make a new valve guide for the intake
Well I just started working on the side shaft. This a look at the rusted
up bevel gear that drives the vertical flyball governor. It is not
saveable so I will buy a new set of gears for the governor and side
shaft. Also here is a photo showing one of the cams on the side shaft
that needs to be pressed off. I cut the old side shaft up to aid in removing
all the parts I need to save...
These next 2 photos are of the piston and cylinder sleeve I just picked
up from Joe Sykes' shop in Lockport, NY. As always Joe does a great job
and I think you can tell that from the photos...
Here is a photo of the gear that mounts on the side shaft that is driven
from a mating gear on the crank shaft. I chucked this up in the lathe and
cleaned it up. Both the gear on the crank shaft and the side shaft where
in very good shape...
In these next photos you can see the intake valve guide taking shape.
It is very critical that things be concentric with the guide. In the
last photo I have drilled and bored the ID of the
The first photo is of pressing the completed valve guide
assembly into the intake valve chest with a
gasket. The last photo shows the valve guide bolted to the valve chest
and a piece of 3/4" diameter rod to simulate a valve stem...
The first 2 photos here are of making the brass spacer bushing/spring
guide. In the last photo you can see the guide assembled in the housing,
with a stem in the guide, the brass bushing in location, and a spring
Notice the cut out in the upper bearing cap to get the babbitt to the
lower portion of the pour. I am using the upper bearing caps to locate
the crank shaft into position. Using this procedure I had no way to pour
the babbitt to the lower portion. This cut out work great...
Heating the babbitt for the pour...
Here is the crank shaft all hot, sooted up, and ready to roll into
position for pouring...
In these last 2 photos you can see the pouring funnel made out of dumb-dumb,
wood, and a c-clamp to aid in the pouring of the babbitt. This would help in
pouring the babbitt through the cut out in the bearing caps. The last photo
shows the finished bearings...