Page #2
of the

25 HP Swan Restoration

Continued...


25 HP Swan

See
Page 1, Page 2, Page 3, Page 4, Page 5, Page 6, Page 7, Page 8, Page 9, Page 10,
for more of the 25 HP Swan Restoration project.


Now that the head (valve chest) is off the cylinder sleeve I took it over to the press and set it up to press the piston out. The piston was pushed up into the valve chest about 2 inches and it was stuck there pretty good. When the engine is running the piston should never make it into the valve chest bore. She was in an unchartered area. I soaked her up good and applied quite a bit of heat. Then I put the power to her and after a few good pumps the piston started to move. This sounds a lot easier here then it really was. Note in the second photo here how short the piston is. It almost has some steam engine simularities...

25 HP Swan 25 HP Swan

This photo was taken after lowering the base and rolling the flywheels and crankshaft back. It was my first look at the babbitt for the mains. After taking a lot of measurements I decided to melt the babbitt out and repour the mains. This would ensure that everything is correct and it would be just like new again...

25 HP Swan

These next 3 photos are of the side-shaft bearing caps that I had casted up. Two of the side shaft-bearing caps were missing and and I used the third one as a pattern. In the first photo you see the original one in black and the 2 new caps as I received them from the foundry. In the next photo I set them up on the mill and made the mounting surfaces flat and true. The third photo is of drilling the mounting holes...

25 HP Swan 25 HP Swan 25 HP Swan

In this photo I have the intake valve chest in the press and after a lot of soaking and heat pressed the valve out. Again it all sounds a lot easier here then it really was...

25 HP Swan

Well here it is early December and the temperature has gotten up to 65 degrees. I couldn't pass it up so I winched the base onto the trailer and spent 2 days wire brushing, sanding, and grinding. After I was happy with the job, I winched the base back into the heated shop and put a coat of primer on her. This would keep it from rusting and protect certain areas. There still are some areas that need work like the cross-head slides that I will machine up later. Also I didn't prime to much of the rear mains area as I need to heat this up when I pour the new babbitt for the mains..

25 HP Swan 25 HP Swan 25 HP Swan

In this photo I have started to make a new valve guide for the intake valve chest...

25 HP Swan

Well I just started working on the side shaft. This a look at the rusted up bevel gear that drives the vertical flyball governor. It is not saveable so I will buy a new set of gears for the governor and side shaft. Also here is a photo showing one of the cams on the side shaft that needs to be pressed off. I cut the old side shaft up to aid in removing all the parts I need to save...

25 HP Swan 25 HP Swan

These next 2 photos are of the piston and cylinder sleeve I just picked up from Joe Sykes' shop in Lockport, NY. As always Joe does a great job and I think you can tell that from the photos...

25 HP Swan 25 HP Swan

Here is a photo of the gear that mounts on the side shaft that is driven from a mating gear on the crank shaft. I chucked this up in the lathe and cleaned it up. Both the gear on the crank shaft and the side shaft where in very good shape...

25 HP Swan

In these next photos you can see the intake valve guide taking shape. It is very critical that things be concentric with the guide. In the last photo I have drilled and bored the ID of the guide...

25 HP Swan 25 HP Swan 25 HP Swan 25 HP Swan

The first photo is of pressing the completed valve guide assembly into the intake valve chest with a gasket. The last photo shows the valve guide bolted to the valve chest and a piece of 3/4" diameter rod to simulate a valve stem...
25 HP Swan 25 HP Swan

The first 2 photos here are of making the brass spacer bushing/spring guide. In the last photo you can see the guide assembled in the housing, with a stem in the guide, the brass bushing in location, and a spring over everything...
25 HP Swan 25 HP Swan 25 HP Swan

Notice the cut out in the upper bearing cap to get the babbitt to the lower portion of the pour. I am using the upper bearing caps to locate the crank shaft into position. Using this procedure I had no way to pour the babbitt to the lower portion. This cut out work great...
25 HP Swan

Heating the babbitt for the pour...
25 HP Swan

Here is the crank shaft all hot, sooted up, and ready to roll into position for pouring...
25 HP Swan

In these last 2 photos you can see the pouring funnel made out of dumb-dumb, wood, and a c-clamp to aid in the pouring of the babbitt. This would help in pouring the babbitt through the cut out in the bearing caps. The last photo shows the finished bearings...
25 HP Swan 25 HP Swan

See
Page 1, Page 2, Page 3, Page 4, Page 5, Page 6, Page 7, Page 8, Page 9, Page 10,
for more of the 25 HP Swan Restoration project.


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