This photo shows a head gasket that was cut out on the DoAll bandsaw and holes drilled with a fostner bit in the drill
press. The gasket is made of 1/8" thick material that is pretty tough...
Well myself and a couple of friends worked on trouble shooting what went wrong with the callahan model. It lost
compression at one of the last engine shows of the season. Photo #1 shows putting the piston and connecting rod back
in the cylinder. Everything checked out okay with the piston and rings. After taking the ignitor a part, the problem
was found. Photo #2 shows the broken isulator bushing. Notice the head of the bushing is broke right off...
These (3) photo show making a new stationary ignitor point bushing out of phenolic. Photo #1 shows turning the OD down.
Photo #2 shows center drilling the bushing with photo #3 showing drilling a .136 diameter hole for the ID...
Photo #1 shows turning the OD of the bushing that will fit in the brass holder for the stationary ignitor point. Photo
#2 shows trying out the fit of the brass holder on the new bushing. Photo #3 shows the bushing turned around in the lathe
chuck and the head of the bushing being faced off...
The first photo here shows the stationary ignitor point all assembled and ready to be screwed into the head and setup.
Photo #2 shows the head and ignitor assembly, all assembled back onto the engine...
Now to get back to working on the Flickinger push rod assembly. Photos #1 & #2 show turning the OD and facing off
the end of the push rod socket that will be formed around the ball. Photo #3 shows a special tool bit ground to turn the
radius that will be formed around the ball...
Photo #1 shows a form tool I barrowed to form the socket around the ball. This form tool has a hardened roller with a
ball bearing that really made this tool work great. Photo #2 shows what the finish form looks like. This process was done
cold without any heat applied and seemed to be very hard on the lathe, as a lot of pressure had to be applied to form
the socket around the ball. Photo #3 shows drilling an oil hole in the socket. After some de-burring the Flickinger
push rod assembly is completed. Photo #4 shows the completed assembly...
Here in these next few photos you can see some work being completed on the Igersoll Sergeant crankshaft. Photo #1 shows
putting the crankshaft in the lathe. Photos #2 & #3 show drilling the crankshaft through to a 2" hole...
Photos #1 & #2 show boring the hole out to 2.375. Photo #3 shows a template made and fitted to the crankshaft throw
that will be the pattern for some counter weights that will be added to the crankshaft...
In the first photo here the bored hole is finished to 2.375. The second photo shows the side of the crankshaft all faced
Here in these (2) photos you can see a cut being made on the hole just bored in the crankshaft for welding the new shaft
in place. Photo #1 shows the tool ground and used for turning the chamfer. Photo #2 shows the completed cut / chamfer.
Notice the use of the stead rest for added rigidity...
With the crankshaft removed from the lathe a piece of 3" diameter round stock is chucked in the lathe. Photo #1 shows
center drilling the shaft. Photo #2 shows facing off the end of the new crankshaft. Photo #3 shows turning the area that
will get pressed into the crankshaft through. Photo #4 shows the press fit diameter almost to size...
Photo #1 shows the diameter that will be pressed into the crankshaft throw turned to size with a radius turned on the end
where the welding will take place. Photo #2 shows a nice chamfer on the OD where the second weld will take place. This
will allow access to the area on the crankshaft that's need to be welded. Photo #3 shows rough turning the OD of the new
shaft leaving material for turning the final diameter after the crankshaft is welded. Photo #4 shows the new shaft
11/12/04 - 11/13/04
Well the Igersoll Sergeant crankshaft is back from the welding shop. These (2) photos show the beautiful weld between
the crankshaft throw and the new shaft...
Here in this photo you can see a air line that was run accross the shop with (4) drops. In the photo the air line is
running to the left and parallel to the I-beam. This will really help to keep all the air hose off the floor...
Photo #1 shows (2) pieces of flat stock welded to the crankshaft throws to help stabilize for turning. As pressure is
applied from the live center, no flexing will happen accross the crankshaft throws. Photo #2 shows putting the crankshaft
in the lathe with photo #3 showing indicating the crankshaft in the (4) jaw chuck. With the existing part of the crankshaft
running true, photo #4 shows taking light cuts to true up an area on the new crankshaft for the steady rest to run...
Just back from the flame cutting shop, (in photo #1) you can see one of the new counter weights that will be mounted to
the crankshaft. There will be one mounted to each crankshaft throw. Boy will these look nice rotating around as the engine
is running. Photo #2 shows turning the small end of the crankshaft were the sideshaft gear and flywheel will mount.
Photo #3 shows turning the area of the new crankshaft that will run in the main bearing journal. Notice the steady rest
is removed for this operation. Photo #4 shows the new part of the crankshaft all turned to size and the side of the
crankshaft throw faced and radius cut...
Below are (2) video clips of the work on the Ingersoll Sergeant crankshaft. The first video clip shows boring a 2.375
diameter hole in the throw. Video clip #2 is of turning the new shaft after it was pressed in and welded to the crankshaft
throw. The videos are approximately 15 seconds long and are in Windows AVI format with a file size of 780K... Boring Video ClipTurning Video Clip
Here in these (3) photos the Ingersoll Sergeant crankshaft is out of the LeBlond lathe and in the vertical mill. We will
be milling in a .625 wide keyway. Photo #1 and #2 show indicating a long the side of the crankshaft journal to insure
it's parallel to the table. Photo #3 shows indicating the top of the crankshaft journal...
Photo #1 shows taking the first pass. This pass can be a very good indication how your setup is. Photo #2 shows the
keyway about half way done, with photo #3 showing the completed keyway...
In these (2) photos you can see how the counter weights came out. After cutting the slot width (on the bandsaw) where
the weights will fit on the through of the crankshaft and a lot of filing, they fit the crankshaft perfect. Now they
will be screwed to the crankshaft throughs with (2) 5/8 grade 8 screws each...
A friend of mine is restoring a 10 HP sideshaft Superior and these next (4) photos are of the sideshaft for the engine.
Photo #1 shows center drilling the 1.500" diameter shaft. Photo #2 shows the end all faced off. Photo #3 shows a 1.4375"
diameter being turned on the one end. The other end of the side shaft was then center drilled and faced off too. Photo
#4 shows the completed shaft all cleaned up and polished...
These next (2) photos are of some work done on the Callahan model. Photo #1 shows new leaf springs put on the ignitor
trip arm. Photo #2 shows the trip arm mounted on the head and if you look close you can see the ignitor points through
the access hole in the head. The points are now all setup...
Well I wasn't sure if I wanted to put these photos up on the webpage, but by popular vote, their here. We have aquired
an out house for my shop which needed some rebuilding. Photo #1 shows Ron Polle, Dave Yorks, and myself, rebuilding the
bottom of the out house. We were also helped by my (2) sons Chris, Joe, and brother Jim. What a project! The second photo
shows the out house in location and ready for use. Thanks guys for all your help...