In this photo I have started laying out the locations for the (2) mounting holes and also the center
for a blind hole that will be bored into the back brass for locating the brass half to the connecting rod...
Here in these series of photos I am doing a little experimentation on a Gray model engine. I am going to
be lowering the compression by putting a spacer between the block and the cylinder head. This engine
currently has a lot of compression and really wants to go to work. We'll see how we can get the Gray
model to run by lowering the compression. Photo #1 shows dismantling the head, rocker arm, and push rod.
Photo #2 shows the head and mounting studs removed...
In these (4) photos you can see the spacer starting to take shape. Photo #1 shows center drilling the
spacer. Photo #2 shows step drilling the hole larger. Photo #3 shows boring the hole to 1.845 diameter.
Photo #4 shows the spacer turned and faced, with the (2) faces now parallel to each other...
Photo #1 here shows transfering the head mounting hole locations to the spacer using transfer punches.
Photo #2 shows the holes all transfered. Photo #3 shows using a wiggler to get the spindle on center.
Photo #4 is of counter sinking the drilled hole...
Photo #1 shows center drilling the last hole. Photo #2 shows the holes all completed. Photo #3 shows
the head on the engine with the studs screwed in to check location. The next step will be to make new
studs that are 1.375 longer then the originals and also a longer push rod...
Here in these (5) photos I started making new longer studs to mount the head with the new spacer added.
Photo #1 shows threading the stud using the tail stock to square up the die. Photo #2 shows the completed
thread. Photo #3 shows the first stud completed and the spacer hanging on it. Photo #4 shows (3) of the
(5) studs completed. The next (2) studs are a smaller diameter with a bastard size thread. These will
have to be cut on the lathe. Photo #5 shows the spacer and head mounted on the engine being held on with
the (3) studs...
Here in photo #1 you can see center drilling the small piece of round stock. Photo #2 shows the piece of round
stock, .250 diameter being turned down to .201 diameter. Photo #3 shows the finished diameter of .201.
Photo #4 shows starting to cut the 28 threads per inch...
These (2) photos show the completed thread. The second photo shows a brass nut on the newly cut thread.
Now to cut the threads on the other end of the stud...
The first photo here shows the last (2) studs screwed into the cylinder. Photo #2 shows a new head gasket
cut and slid over the studs with the spacer also on the studs. Photo #3 shows the head all mounted and
A new longer push rod had to be made. Photo #1 shows turning the end on a piece of .1875 diameter brass.
Photo #2 shows the end turned down to .146 diameter and the end rounded over. This also had to be done to
the opposite end. Photo #3 shows the original push rod next to the new one that is 1.375" longer. Photo #4
shows all the other components along with the new push rod all assembled on the engine. Now to start the
model Gray up...
In these (2) photos you can see the model Gray engine running. The second photo shows the proud owner making
some fine adjustments. By lowering the compression on this model, it has really mellowed it out, and has
allowed us to run it slower. Please note: To make this alteration to the model, none of the original parts,
piston, connecting rod, had to be altered. The spacer, studs, second head gasket, and push rod, were the
only new parts needed to lower the compression. This ment if the changes didn't work, we could always get
back to the original setup...
These (3) photos are of a 8 HP Goold Shapley & Muir piston that has been metal sprayed, so the OD can
be brought up, to fit the new bore, with the proper clearance. Photo #1 shows the OD turned and the oil
grooves rough cut into the OD. Photo #2 shows the OD and oil grooves completed. Photo #3 shows truing up
the piston ring grooves. Now that the ring grooves are trued up, we can order some new piston rings...
These (2) photos are of a Lister clone engine my friend Ron Polle
has put together. Also mounted on the skid is a 5KW generator. Ron had this on a portable cart but it
will soon be mounted in a small addition Ron is building on his garage. This generating unit will be
wired in to his main panel box to supply emergency power for the house. Believe it or not, this past
winter, the Lister and generator saw 3 days of continuous action. Everything worked great...
Here I have started working on making a couple of new shafts for a stationary baler. You can see in the
first photo how worn out the original shaft is and that it's also bent. Photo #2 shows facing the end of the new
shaft. Photo #3 shows the shaft all faced off and a chamfer cut. Photo #4 shows the other end of the
shaft all faced and chamfered, plus the rest of the shaft cleaned / polished...
In these (2) photos you can see that I have mounted the shaft vise on the vertical mill and are
indicating the vise in...
Photo #1 shows taking the first pass of cutting a .250 wide keyway slot. Photo #2 shows the first pass
Here in photo #1 the first slot is completed. Photo #2 shows a method I use to insure that the keyway
slots are all in line. I attach a "V" block to the shaft and put a level it. Now the shaft can be moved
in the shaft vise and brought back to level. You want to make sure your machine is level if you are
going to rotate the shaft end for end...
In the first photo here you can see a 6" long slot being milled in the middle of the shaft. Photo #2
shows the completed slot on the left side of the shaft. Photo #3 shows the completed shaft next to the
06/11/04 - 06/12/04
Here in these next series of photos you can see the last of the stationary baler shafts being completed.
Photos #1, #2, & #3 show facing off the ends of the shaft and polishing the OD. Photo #4 shows starting
to mill the keyway...
Photo #1 shows one of the keyways with a key in it. Photo #2 shows the method used to get the key ways
in-line. Refer to the explaination above, dated 06/09/04 on how I did this. Photo #3 shows the last
keyway done and the last stationary baler shaft completed...
Here in these (2) photos I needed to turn the diameter of a pin down for my tractor. Not a real big
These (3) photos are of drilling the mounting holes in the 15 HP Olin brasses. Photo #1 shows the first
hole center drilled and getting ready to drill. Photo #2 shows drilling in action. Photo #3 shows the
(2) holes completed...