In these next (4) photos you can see the work finishing up on the 7 HP Thermoil cylinder and
piston. Photo (1) shows the piston all turned to diameter and the oil grooves in the skirt all
cut in. Photo (2) shows squaring up the piston ring grooves. Photo (3) shows the completed piston.
Photo (4) shows the piston in the newly bored cylinder. Now to order the piston rings to complete
This is the next project. Re-grooving (4) pistons for a 1921 Case tractor engine. This photo shows
the first piston all set up in the LeBlond lathe ready to true up the piston ring grooves...
The first photo here shows truing up the ring grooves for the Case pistons. The fellow this job is
for, had already purchased the new oil and compression rings. I knew what width to make the ring grooves.
I then fabricated a tool that would cut the ring grooves in one pass. You can see it good in the
first photo. The second and third photo you can see the process of gapping the rings. The second photo
shows filing the gap, and the third photo shows putting the ring in the cylinder sleeve and squaring
it up with the piston to measure the gap. Photo four shows all the rings installed on the pistons.
These next few photos are of some parts of a Bradon Half Breed engine made in Bradford, Pa. that I am repairing.
The first photo shows using an adjustable reamer to true up the guide for the valve stem. Photo #2 shows making
a new valve stem. Photo #3 shows taking the finish pass on the OD of the valve stem...
This next group of photos show threading the valve stem. Photo #1 shows turning the end of the valve stem to
cut a 1/2-12 thread so the original cast iron valve can be used. Photos #2 & #3 show cutting the thread
and the finished thread before deburring. Photo #4 shows the original cast iron flat valve and nut on the new
intake valve stem. Photo #5 shows threading the opposite end of the valve stem. These threads will be used
to adjust the spring pressure on the intake valve. Photo #6 shows the completed 5/8-11 thread. Photo #7 shows
the completed valve assembly and the original intake valve stem...
Here in these next (4) photos you can see aome work I have been doing on a 22 HP Headless Witte engine. Photo #1
shows the brass tag on the side of the large hopper. Photo #2 shows the cylinder bore after boring and honing.
Photo #3 shows an area towards the back of the cylinder that still has a few inperfections that are not in the
combustion area and won't effect how the engine will run. Photo #4 shows the piston all metal sprayed and ready
In this next series of photos, the work is continuing on the Bradon Half breed. The next (3) photos show
removing the existing connecting rod from the piston. Photo #1 shows removing the jam nut with a lot of heat
and penitrating oil. The second photo shows heating the piston up in the area where the connecting rod is
threaded into the piston. Photo #3 shows the thread in the top of the piston...
The existing connecting rod was pitted real bad and not usable. These next (3) photos show the start of
making a new connecting rod. Photos #1 & #2 show starting to thread the 1.625 diameter connecting rod.
Photo #3 shows the completed 1 5/8-6 thread...
Well here the work continues on the Bradon connecting rod. After putting the finishing touches on the 1 5/8-6
thread, photos #1 & #2 show trying the nut and cross head on the connecting rod. Photo #3 shows cutting
the connecting rod to length and photo #4 shows cutting a piece of bar stock that will be made into a collar
that will be shrunk and welded onto the connecting rod. This will form a large face for the piston to butt up
The first and second photo here show drilling a 1.405 through the collar to remove a lot of material before
boring. Photos #3 & #4 show boring the ID of the collar...
In photo #1 I started turning the end of the connecting rod where the collar will be sweat on to the shaft.
This gives the collar a nice shoulder to push against on the power stroke. Photo #2 shows the collar in place
on the connecting rod. There is a .003 interference fit between the connecting rod OD and the ID of the collar.
I then heated the collar and slipped it onto the rod. Photo #3 shows MIG welding the collar to the rod. Photo
#4 shows the collar welded to the connecting rod...
In the first 2 photos, the collar and the weld are cleaned up in the lathe. The third photo shows turning
the end of the connecting rod down to size for a 1 1/4-8 thread, and also facing the area that will butt up
against the piston...
Now we're ready to thread the end of the connecting rod. Photo #1 shows setting up the thread cutting tool.
Photo #2 was taken after the first pass of cutting the threads and shows verifying the TPI with a thread pitch
gage. Photo #3 shows the threads all completed and the jam nut on the new threads. Photo #4 shows the completed
connecting rod. Photo #5 is of the drawing I created to make the connecting rod...
This 5 HP Pattin Bros. engine showed up at the shop today. As you can see from the photos it's going to need
a little work. The fellow who owns the engine is quite excited about getting it restored and I think he will
have a beautiful engine when he's all complete...
In these (2) photos the piston is getting prepared for metal spraying (metalizing). The rings were removed
and the pins that held the piston rings in place are ground down. The next photo shows the piston mounted on
the connecting rod and everything torqued down...
Photo #1 shows torquing the intake valve face to the new stem and then tighening the lock nut. The threads
were upset with a chisel so the nut can't back off. Photo #2 shows truing up the valve face. Photo #3 shows
grinding the valve face with the toolpost grinder. Photo #4 shows the completed intake valve...
In the first (2) photos you can see the intake valve seat being trued up to the guide. After truing the seat
it was ground with the toolpost grinder...