Work is continuing on the 3 1/2 HP Fuller Johnson. Photo #1 shows positioning the mill using a wobber,
to drill the cross hole in the wrist pin which will keep it locked into the piston. Photo #2 shows drilling
the hole and photo #3 shows the finished wrist pin. In photos #4 & #5, a pin is being made to locate
the connecting rod in the vertical mill. This was done to get the proper orientation of the connecting rod
so the wrist pin bushing can be bored to size...
Photo #1 shows the set up used to locate and clamp the connecting rod. Photo #2 shows indicating the bushing
ID to get it on center with the spindle. Photo #3 shows the boring being done. Photo #4 shows the wrist pin
in the bushing. Photo #5 shows the completed bushing. Photo #6 shows the oil hole drilled and (2) oil grooves
cut in with a dremel tool. Photo #7 shows the wrist pin fitted to the bushing and photo #8 shows everything
In these first (4) photos work is continuing on some parts for the 60 HP Flickenger engine. Photo #1 shows
the corliss box mounted on the Lucas horizontal boring mill table. Photos #2 & #3 show getting one
of the old brass bushings out of the corliss box. We used a puller and then tapped on it with a hammer to
shock it. Photo #4 is of the shaft that goes through the corliss box to operate the corliss valve. Photo #5
is of my son Christopher drilling some holes in a angle bracket for a school project. Photos #6 & #7
show Ron Polle doing some milling on a governor weight he is making for a 5 HP Bovaird & Company vertcal
he owns. Photos #8 & #9 are close ups of the milling operation...
Photo #1 shows indicating the corliss box to get it lined up. Photo #2 shows a 1 1/2" diameter bar that
will be used as a boring bar. There are (2) brass bushings that need to be pressed into each end of the
corliss box. The shaft in front of the corliss box is the actual shaft that goes through the box. Photo #3
shows locating the hole that will have a toolbit in it for boring. Notice the hole is off center to bring
the cutting edge of the toolbit to the center line of the bar. Photo #4 shows center drilling the hole,
and photo #5 shows drilling the hole to 7/16" diameter. Photo #6 shows tapping a hole for a 1/4" set screw
which will lock the toolbit in place. Photo #7 shows the completed bar...
In photo #1 the spindle of the Lucas horizontal boring mill is being positioned on center with the
corliss box. Photo #2 shows the entire setup and the first pass being completed. Photo #3 shows material
being removed during the first pass through the corliss box...
On 04/19/03 Mike Fuoco came over my shop to help out on getting the (3) sideshafts completed for the 60 HP
Flickinger Compressor Engine. In the next (14) photos you can see some of the work we completed on the
sideshafts and also the governor. While all this work was going on we still managed to make a few more passes
through the corliss box with the boring bar on the Lucas Horizontal Mill. Hope you enjoy the photos. You will
see everything from setting the vertical mill up for boring the governor housing, sanding and polishing the
sideshafts in the lathe, milling the keyway slots, and reaming the governor belt pulley...
My friend Stiles Bradley has been working on the restoration of a 18 HP Electric Lighting Buffalo Olin. He
finished putting the paint on and in these next (3) photos you can see how the paint job came out. It really
looks awesome. The head in the photos is the one Stiles made in some previous photos here on the shopwork
These (2) photos are of a skid Stiles and I are building for the 20 HP Abel Acme engine restoration that I
currently have going on, along with everything else. I need to make (3) cross pieces and then the Abel Acme
bed plate can be mounted on the skid...
Below more work is continuing on the 20 HP Abel Acme engine skid. The photos below show cutting the cross bunks,
cutting the plates to be welded onto the treaded rods, drilling the holes, routing pockets in the
underside to except the threaded rod and plates. There are photos of rolling the heavy skid over after
routing the pockets and then lowering the engine bed plate onto the skid. The last photo shows what the completed
skid and engine bed plate look like together...