After making the first pass through the bore on the Famous cylinder I wasn't happy with the stability
of the cutting tool. What I am going to do is make another bearing support that will mount directly to
the cylinder and give the stabilizer bar more support throughout the entire bore length. In photo #1 you
can see how I am going to mount the extra support bearing to the cylinder. Photo #2 shows the C-channel
that will house the bearing getting (3) holes drilled...
Next, I need to make a housing for the brass support bearing. This housing will get welded to the C-channel. In
photo #1 the housing end is faced off and the OD turned down to the diameter that will fit into the C-channel.
In photos #2 & #3 you can see the drilling operation has started. Photo #4 shows the ID of the housing
being bored. Photo #5 shows the chamfers cut and housing almost completed...
Below are (2) photos Dave Johnson sent me of the finished brasses for his 15 HP Titusville Olin
restoration. They look real good...
In this photo you can see I have flipped the bearing support housing around and faced off the other end
and chamfered the ID and OD...
Photo #1 shows the C-channel setup in the mill, centering up the center hole to bore out to except the
bearing support housing. The housing will be pressed into the C-channel and then welded. Photo #2 shows
something I have never done before. I used a metal cutting hole saw to open up the center hole to cut down
on the amount of material I had to bore out. Photo #3 shows a fly cutter being used to bore the hole to a
diameter of 2.300...
Photo #1 shows how I use a magnetic base indicator, with a flat tip, to measure how far I am indexing the
tool bit in the fly cutter. This is a very easy and accurate way to achieve the proper hole size. Photo #2
shows the completed hole, bored to a diameter of 2.300...
In photo #1 I am drilling (2) holes that will be for set screws that will hold the split brass bushing
in place and also control the amount of drag on the stabilizing bar. Photo #2 shows tapping the (2)
In photo #1 the bearing support housing is being pressed into the C-channel. Photo #2 shows the bearing
support housing welded to the C-channel...
Now with the bearing support housing welded in place the bore should be indicated to see if it is true to
the mounting surface of the C-channel. (the way it will be mounted on the cylinder) Photo #1 shows
centering the existing bore on the vertical mill. (note; the C-channel is mounted on the vertical mill
the way it will be mounted on the cylinder) Photo #2 shows running an indicator up and down the bore
of the bearing support housing to see if the bore is out. It was. Photo #3 shows the Criterion boring
head in action. Photo #4 shows the finished bore. Now the bore of the bearing support housing is true to
the mounting surface...
Now to make the split brass bushing. Photo #1 shows turning the OD of the bushing. Photo #2 shows the ID
bored and the ends chamfered, and being cut-off to length. Photo #3 shows the bushing inserted into the
bearing support housing. (2) drill points where drilled in for the set screws and the brass bushing was
also saw cut and deburred. The bearing support housing and bushing also received an oil hole for
Photo #1 shows the bearing support all mounted on the cylinder and ready for action. In photo #2 we have
started taking another pass through the cylinder bore. Shazam! No more tool chatter through out the entire
length of the bore. Photo #3 is another view of the boring...
In these (3) photos I am getting ready to make one more roughing pass. In photos #1 & #2 you can see
the bore is really cleaning up nice. Photo #3 shows the head end of the bore which was the worst. This is
the end where all the debris was laying in the cylinder for who knows how long. Notice in this photo the
bottom of the bore is almost all cleaned up...
Photo #1 is of the finish cut through the bore. I set the tool bit to take .004 off per side and took the
feed down to .006 per revolution. Photo #2 shows the score card for how many passes it took to clean the
bore up. Photo #3 is a before shot of the bore and photo #4 shows the completed bore. I wiped out the oil
and chips with a rag and there is a little discoloring but this will all go away with honing. What a big
difference between the (2) photos...
In this photo, all the tooling and support bars have been removed and I put a dial indicator in the machine
spindle to tram all (4) quadrants and check for taper on the new bore. The bore came out nice and straight
due to all the bearing support used for the setup...
For honing of the bore I took the cylinder over to my friends shop,
Corfu Machine. Dave Johnson has a nice honing machine they use for
the manufacturing of hydraulic cylinders and it works out great for honing engine cylinders. Photo #1 shows
getting the cylinder over to the honing machine. In photo #2 the cylinder is all mounted and secured in
position with the honing tool all setup. Photo #3 is a close up of the honing tool at work. Photo #4 shows
what it looks like from the operators point of view...
These (2) photos are of the completed bore. Photo #1 is a view from the crankshaft end of the cylinder.
Notice the cross hatching. Photo #2 is of the head end of the cylinder and this was the bad end as far as
pitting goes. Notice how nice this all cleaned up. The new bore is a diameter of 8.139 after boring and
honing, with a total of .151 being removed to clean the bore up. Now to get the piston ready for the new
Here in this photo I started making a new wrist pin...
In photo #1, Dave Yorks and myself are cleaning out the piston ring grooves. We are getting the piston
ready to get metalized so it will fit the new cylinder bore. Photo #2 shows the piston all cleaned up...
In this photo I pressed out the brass bushing for the wrist pin and cleaned up the oil passage holes
and the connecting rod...