Shop Work Page #7


shop photo

This webpage shows the current jobs
being worked on in the shop.
Hope you enjoy the activity.



See
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Page 14, Page 15, Page 16, Page 17, Page 18, Page 19, Page 20, Page 21, Page 22, Page 23, Page 24, Page 25,
Page 26, Page 27, Page 28, Page 29, Page 30, Page 31, Page 32, Page 33, Page 34, Page 35, Page 36, Page 37,
Page 38, Page 39, Page 40, Page 41, Page 42, Page 43, Page 44, Page 45, Page 46, Page 47, Page 48, Page 49, Page 50,

for more Shop Work.


Here in these next (3) photos I am boring a hole in a 35 HP Black Bear rocker arm for my friend Doug Allen. Photo #1 shows the setup I used to bore the hole. It was worn really egg-shaped and had a lot of taper to it. Photo #2 shows starting the second pass and really starting to remove some material. Photo #3 shows the finished hole...


Now to make a bushing for the rocker arm. Photo #1 shows turning the O.D. of the bushing to be a press fit to the I.D. of the rocker arm. Photo #2 shows drilling a hole in the bushing to be able to get the boring bar in there. Photo #3 shows the boring bar work completed. To get the bore diameter, I added .002 to the rocker arm pin diameter and then added the .003 interference press fit between the bushing O.D. and rocker arm I.D. The fit between the pin O.D. and bushing I.D. came out great after being pressed into the rocker arm housing. This saved the step of having to ream or bore the bushing I.D. after being pressed into the rocker arm housing. I think I just got lucky. Photo #4 shows cutting the bushing off with the parting tool...


Photo #1 shows pressing the bushing into the rocker arm housing. Photo #2 shows the bushing all pressed in and deburred. Photo #3 shows the completed rocker arm assembly with the pin in the bushing...


Here in this photo I am boring a 1.000 diameter hole in an adjustable end for a push rod which goes on a 35 HP Black Bear engine. This hole was really worn egg shaped. I need to squeek another .036 out of this boring head and can't, so will have to go up to the next size...


In photo #1 I am taking the drive shank for a Flynn boring head, which had a #3 MT and am altering it to a .750 diameter X 2" long shank. This will allow me to mount it in the Bridgeport mill. Photos #2 & #3 show the finshed drive shank...


Photo #1 shows the Flynn boring head mounted in the Bridgeport and now the hole can be bored to size. We have all the adjustment we need. Photo #2 shows the completed brass adjustable push rod end. Photo #3 shows the pivot pin also in the adjustable push rod end...


One of my friends is restoring a 18 HP Buffalo Olin Electric Lighting engine and he asked me if I could help out a little with the valve chest. In photo #1 your can see what the exhaust valve seat looks like. Photos #2 & #3 show truing up an exhaust valve that he made...


Photos #1 & #2 here show grinding the flat valve surface with the Dumore Toolpost grinder. Photos #3 & #4 show truing up a grinding stone on a .750 diameter shaft, to be used to cut the seat in the valve chest. To cut the grinding wheel I am using an industrial diamond in the toolholder. Its going to take a lot of cutting to get all the pitts out of the seat...


Photo #1 shows the seat after we started cutting, or should I say grinding on it. Photo #2 shows the seat all ground and ready for lapping the exhaust valve. We had to re-dress the grinding wheel in the lathe a few times to keep a good cutting surface. Photos #3 & #4 show the exhaust valve and seat all lapped and ready for action...


This is a photo of Ron Polle running his 4 HP Myrick Eclipse. He just finished installing the intake valve we built a few weeks ago and its working fine. We were trying everything we could to save the original valve but we never could get a good seal, so we wound up making a new intake valve which you can see previously on the Shop Work WebPage...


In photo #1 I am indicating the vise in the shaper. I will be making a trip arm for an ignitor and need to have the vise parallel to the ram travel. Photo #2 shows the trip arm roughed out and starting to take shape. Photo #3 shows the trip arm finished to a size of .375 X .375 X 3" long...


Photo #1 is of doing some layout work for the trip arm mounting hole. I also scribed the OAL of the trip arm. Photo #2 shows center drilling the hole. Photo #3 shows the .261 (G size drill) hole in the trip arm. Photo #4 shows milling the trip arm to a length of 2.720. Photo #5 shows the deburred and completed trip arm...


These next (2) photos are of a 3 HP Pohl Diesel engine cylinder bore. After cleaning up the bore and doing a lot of measuring, we know where we stand. The bore in the up and down direction has about .011 taper from front to back. The side to side direction is a little better at .007. There is quite a bit of rough pitting in (2) areas that looks like the bore was eatin away. Next I need to see what kind of shape the piston is in and see what kind of clearance we have...


After a couple of weeks vacation its time to get back to work in the shop. To bore the cylinder on the 3 HP Pohl I need to make a 3" diameter toolholder. In Photo #1 Ron Polle is starting to turn the O.D. of the toolholder. In Photo #2 you can see the toolholder...


In these next (4) photos Dave Yorks and myself are setting up the 3 HP Pohl engine on the Lucas Horizontal Boring Mill. Like any setup you want to have the part very stable but yet still be able to make adjustments when indicating the existing bore in. Photos #1 through #3 show locating the spindle side of the engine on solid parallels being held down with fixture keys and threaded rod, and then the opposite end of the engine having adjustable locating supports to be able to line up the cylinder bore. Photo #4 shows the setup almost completed, with a chain type clamp going over the entire engine and pulling everything towards the machine table. Over the adjustable supports, I am going to put a set of fixture strap clamps to help clamp the engine down too...


On the last few cylinders I have bored, I have been having a little trouble with the clutch slipping on the boring mill, so I decided to tear it a part and see what was wrong. Photo #1 shows the clutch all disassembled, ready for cleaning, and inspection to find the problem. Photo #2 shows the tapered drive surface of the clutch all cleaned up and it also shows the brass thrust washer with 3 holes that should have (3) pins press in them to guide the springs that disengage the clutch when its released. This was part of the problem. The (3) guide pins where just rolling around in the main housing and the (3) springs were bent over. In photo #3 you can see the bent springs in the lower right hand corner. The other problem was the (2) clutch dogs that ride up on the engaging cone are worn down. You can see them in photo #3 as part of the main housing with the cone sitting on it. I will build these up so I can get full pressure on the clutch again...




See
Page 1, Page 2, Page 3, Page 4, Page 5, Page 6, Page 7, Page 8, Page 9, Page 10, Page 11, Page 12, Page 13,
Page 14, Page 15, Page 16, Page 17, Page 18, Page 19, Page 20, Page 21, Page 22, Page 23, Page 24, Page 25,
Page 26, Page 27, Page 28, Page 29, Page 30, Page 31, Page 32, Page 33, Page 34, Page 35, Page 36, Page 37,
Page 38, Page 39, Page 40, Page 41, Page 42, Page 43, Page 44, Page 45, Page 46, Page 47, Page 48, Page 49, Page 50,

for more Shop Work.





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