Here in these next (3) photos I am boring a hole in a 35 HP Black Bear rocker arm for my friend
Doug Allen. Photo #1 shows
the setup I used to bore the hole. It was worn really egg-shaped and had a lot of taper to it.
Photo #2 shows starting the second pass and really starting to remove some material. Photo #3 shows
the finished hole...
Now to make a bushing for the rocker arm. Photo #1 shows turning the O.D. of the bushing to be a press
fit to the I.D. of the rocker arm. Photo #2 shows drilling a hole in the bushing to be able to get the boring bar
in there. Photo #3 shows the boring bar work completed. To get the bore diameter, I added .002 to the rocker arm pin
diameter and then added the .003 interference press fit between the bushing O.D. and rocker arm I.D. The fit between
the pin O.D. and bushing I.D. came out great after being pressed into the rocker arm housing. This saved the step of
having to ream or bore the bushing I.D. after being pressed into the rocker arm housing. I think I just got lucky.
Photo #4 shows cutting the bushing off with the parting tool...
Photo #1 shows pressing the bushing into the rocker arm housing. Photo #2 shows the bushing all pressed in and
deburred. Photo #3 shows the completed rocker arm assembly with the pin in the bushing...
Here in this photo I am boring a 1.000 diameter hole in an adjustable end for a push rod which goes on a 35 HP
Black Bear engine. This hole was really worn egg shaped. I need to squeek another .036 out of this boring head
and can't, so will have to go up to the next size...
In photo #1 I am taking the drive shank for a Flynn boring head, which had a #3 MT and am
altering it to a .750 diameter X 2" long shank. This will allow me to mount it in the Bridgeport mill.
Photos #2 & #3 show the finshed drive shank...
Photo #1 shows the Flynn boring head mounted in the Bridgeport and now the hole can be bored to size.
We have all the adjustment we need. Photo #2 shows the completed brass adjustable push rod end. Photo #3
shows the pivot pin also in the adjustable push rod end...
One of my friends is restoring a 18 HP Buffalo Olin Electric Lighting engine and he asked me if I could
help out a little with the valve chest. In photo #1 your can see what the exhaust valve seat looks like.
Photos #2 & #3 show truing up an exhaust valve that he made...
Photos #1 & #2 here show grinding the flat valve surface with the Dumore Toolpost grinder. Photos #3
& #4 show truing up a grinding stone on a .750 diameter shaft, to be used to cut the seat in the
valve chest. To cut the grinding wheel I am using an industrial diamond in the toolholder. Its going to
take a lot of cutting to get all the pitts out of the seat...
Photo #1 shows the seat after we started cutting, or should I say grinding on it. Photo #2 shows the seat all
ground and ready for lapping the exhaust valve. We had to re-dress the grinding wheel in the lathe a few
times to keep a good cutting surface. Photos #3 & #4 show the exhaust valve and seat all
lapped and ready for action...
This is a photo of Ron Polle running his 4 HP Myrick Eclipse. He just
finished installing the intake valve we built a few weeks ago and its working fine. We were trying everything
we could to save the original valve but we never could get a good seal, so we wound up making a new intake
valve which you can see previously on the
Shop Work WebPage...
In photo #1 I am indicating the vise in the shaper. I will be making a trip arm for an ignitor and
need to have the vise parallel to the ram travel. Photo #2 shows the trip arm roughed out and starting
to take shape. Photo #3 shows the trip arm finished to a size of .375 X .375 X 3" long...
Photo #1 is of doing some layout work for the trip arm mounting hole. I also scribed the OAL of the trip
arm. Photo #2 shows center drilling the hole. Photo #3 shows the .261 (G size drill) hole in the trip arm.
Photo #4 shows milling the trip arm to a length of 2.720. Photo #5 shows the deburred and completed
These next (2) photos are of a 3 HP Pohl Diesel engine cylinder bore. After cleaning up the bore and
doing a lot of measuring, we know where we stand. The bore in the up and down direction has about .011
taper from front to back. The side to side direction is a little better at .007. There is quite a bit of
rough pitting in (2) areas that looks like the bore was eatin away. Next I need to see what kind of shape
the piston is in and see what kind of clearance we have...
After a couple of weeks vacation its time to get back to work in the shop. To bore the cylinder on the 3 HP
Pohl I need to make a 3" diameter toolholder. In Photo #1 Ron Polle is starting to turn the O.D. of the
toolholder. In Photo #2 you can see the toolholder...
In these next (4) photos Dave Yorks and myself are setting up the 3 HP Pohl engine on the Lucas Horizontal
Boring Mill. Like any setup you want to have the part very stable but yet still be able to make adjustments
when indicating the existing bore in. Photos #1 through #3 show locating the spindle side of the engine on
solid parallels being held down with fixture keys and threaded rod, and then the opposite end of the engine
having adjustable locating supports to be able to line up the cylinder bore. Photo #4 shows the setup almost
completed, with a chain type clamp going over the entire engine and pulling everything towards the machine
table. Over the adjustable supports, I am going to put a set of fixture strap clamps to help clamp the engine
On the last few cylinders I have bored, I have been having a little trouble with the clutch slipping on the
boring mill, so I decided to tear it a part and see what was wrong. Photo #1 shows the clutch all
disassembled, ready for cleaning, and inspection to find the problem. Photo #2 shows the tapered drive
surface of the clutch all cleaned up and it also shows the brass thrust washer with 3 holes that should
have (3) pins press in them to guide the springs that disengage the clutch when its released. This was part
of the problem. The (3) guide pins where just rolling around in the main housing and the (3) springs were bent
over. In photo #3 you can see the bent springs in the lower right hand corner. The other problem was the
(2) clutch dogs that ride up on the engaging cone are worn down. You can see them in photo #3 as part of the main
housing with the cone sitting on it. I will build these up so I can get full pressure on the clutch again...