Photo #1 here shows the set up I used for boring the ID of the ram mount. Photo #2 shows my son
Christopher running the lathe and he is getting pretty good at it too...
Photo #1 shows the ID all finished to a diameter of 3.750. This will fit onto the ram of the
horizontal mill. Photo #2 is the last step of threading (4) 5/18-18 holes for the set screws
that will lock the "J" head ram mount on...
In photo #1 you can see the ram mount and the "J" head adapter plate bolted together and ready to
go onto the horizontal mill ram. Photo #2 shows the assembly all mounted and ready for the Bridgeport
These (2) photos show the Bridgeport "J" head mounted on the Garvin Horizontal Mill. Now to get the
motor mounted and some R8 tooling...
This little project is removing about 1 1/4" of thread from a connecting rod for a 6 HP Emery engine.
The threads were tearing up the packing that goes around the connecting rod. I needed to make the
smooth portion of the connecting rod longer.
In photo #1 I welded a nut onto the connecting rod and turned it down to the 1.250 diameter of the
connecting rod. I wasn't happy how it came out so them I went to mig welding material onto the threads
and turning that down to the 1.250 diameter. Photo #2 shows the steady rest in use for turning the
long connecting rod. Photo #3 & #4 show the finished connecting rod. There is just a little porosity
(pitting) where I mig welded to build up the material, but it came out real good...
Here in these next (3) photos I am grinding some worn out dead centers for a friend. Photo #1 shows
the setup I used on the Atlas lathe. The first center was quite long, and hung out from the headstock,
but there is very little pressure on the center when grinding. Photo #2 shows (2) of the centers
completed and the third center you can see on the right, how worn out they were. Photo #3 shows all the
centers reground and polished...
A friend of mine, Ron Polle is having some trouble with a 4 HP Myrick Eclipse intake valve assembly leaking
so we tore off into that job. Photo #1 shows cutting the 45 degree angle seat in the intake housing. We
reground the valve and in Photo #2 you can see Ron lapping the valve and seat. We were unhappy with
the seal when we were done. It leaks pretty bad and believe its because the Valve OD is smaller after
regrinding and cutting the seat. Now we have decided to make a new valve...
I started working on making a new exhaust pipe elbow for my 12 HP Field Brundage engine. Photo #1 shows
the bastard size thread, with 8 TPI, that I am going to reproduce. Photo #2 shows the exhaust flange
all cleaned up and a new gasket cut. Photo #3 shows a piece of heavy wall tubing in the LeBlond lathe,
turning the OD for the threads. In photo #4 I am boring the ID of the tube out to 2.500...
In photo #1 you can see the threads starting to take shape. Photo #2 shows the exhaust flange screwed
on, to check out the thread size. Photo #3 shows the completed threads. Photo #4 shows the adapter
turn around in the lathe chuck so it could be faced off and a chamfer cut for welding the adapter
to a 2" pipe 90 deg. elbow...
This photo shows the adapter screwed into the exhaust flange...
On Sunday, one of my friends (Doug Allen) who is restoring a 35 HP Black Bear engine asked
if he could stop over and work on a few parts for the engine. Before the day
was over we had a few more of our engine friends show up and everyone was pitching in.
Photo #1 shows Ron Polle running the LeBlond lathe working on a pivot pin for
one of the Black Bear rocker arms. Photo #2 shows Dave Yorks working on cleaning
some parts and Doug Allen and Stiles Bradley working on some tool bits. Photo #3
shows Doug running the shaper working on the tapered wedge that takes up the main
connecting rod bearings. Photo #4 shows the finished pin Ron was working on in the
Photo #1 shows Doug running the cut-off saw, cutting off some new cam rollers.
Photo #2 shows Ron now turning a brass bushing for another one of the Black Bear
rocker arms. Photo #3 shows Ron drilling a 1.75 diameter hole in the brass for the
bushing. We couldn't find a piece of brass tubing the size we needed. We made a lot
of brass chips. Photo #4 shows Doug driling holes in the cam rollers and Dave watching
and keeping chips clear...
Photo #1 shows the exhaust adapter welded to a 2" 90 deg. elbow. Photo #2 shows
the exhaust system on the 12 HP Field Brundage all hooked up and completed...
Here in photo #1 you can see a little cart I built out of some angle iron and (4)
swivel casters to move heavy items around the shop and get them under the chain fall.
Photo #2 shows a 3 HP Pohl diesel engine up on the Lucas horizontal boring mill,
getting setup, ready for boring...
Here in these (3) photos I am setting up the new Bridgeport "J" head on the mill.
Photo #1 shows indicating the head to get it perpendicular to the machine table.
Photo #2 shows taking a few passes to see how the head is working. In Photo #3 you
can see a couple of small brass knobs I made and installed on the head. One was
for the speed selection on the quill feed and the other was for the forward and
reverse on the quill feed...
Ron Polle needed a new intake valve for his 4 HP Myrick Eclipse so we went into
action to make one up. The original valve was so worn out, we couldn't get it to seal good.
In photo #1 Ron is turning and cutting off a piece of steel that will be the intake
valve face. In photo #2 I am cutting off material that will be the new valve stem.
Photo #3 shows threads I just put on the valve stem...
In photo #1 Ron is drilling and reaming a hole in the valve face so we can press the
new valve stem into it. Photo #2 shows heating the valve face up to press the valve stem into it.
Photo #3 shows the valve stem and the face pressed together and now cooling...
This first photo shows the 12 HP Field Brundage belted up to the lineshaft and all
the mayjor plumbing done so the engine can be run in the shop. Also I have been doing
some tinkering on the engine like adjusting things and adding oilers. The second photo
shows a new door that Ron and I installed in my shop. Wow, no more cold drafts.
This new door also lets a lot more natural light into the shop too...
In photo #1 I am cutting the 45 deg. angle on the valve face. Next in photo #2
you can see the intake valve being ground. Photo #3 shows the new intake valve
all lapped in and completed. Now to mount it on the engine and try it out...