After milling the surface the valve chest mounts to I switched tools and put a 7/8 diameter drill bit
in the machine. What I plan to do is install some threaded inserts to restore the original 3/4-10
threads that are all rusted out. I will be threading the 7/8 diameter hole to a 1-8 thread. One of
the studs is broken off in the lower right hand corner which I will drill out, being all set up in
the boring machine. Here in the first photo I have positioned the drill bit on center of the existing
hole and have just started drilling. The second photo shows all 5 of the holes
opened up to 7/8 diameter and ready for tapping...
The next (3) photos show drilling out the stud. Photo #1 shows center drilling
the center of the stud. Photo #2 shows getting the first hole in. I put a piece
of masking tape on the drill so I knew when I was approximately through the stud. When feeding
a drill this small on this machine you can't feel anything. You just have to look at the chip
coming off the drill to see what you are doing. Photo #3 shows the broken stud now gone
and the hole opened up to 7/8 diameter...
Here is a photo of the 6 holes all drilled out to 7/8 diameter and they just need to be tapped
to a 1-8 thread and the thread inserts installed...
I have ordered the threaded inserts but they still haven't arrived yet so I went on and tapped
the (6) holes for the 1-8 thread O.D. of the inserts. I bought these from
McMaster Carr and they
should be arriving any day. The first photo here shows starting the tap and getting it squared
up to the mounting surface. After threading all the holes with this tap which had a long taper
on it, I went through each hole with a bottoming tap. The second photo just shows a 3/4" drive
"T" handle and 8 point socket that I used for turning the tap. The last photo shows all (6) of
the holes threaded and ready for the inserts...
The thread inserts came today and here in the following photos you can see how I installed them.
Photo #1 shows what the insert looks like. It has a 1-8 thread on the O.D. and a 3/4-10 thread
on the I.D. There also is a special sealant and adhesive on the external threads, its kind of
a pink color. There are 2 drive slots in the insert that require a special installation tool, but
you can also install them with a standard bolt and nut as you can see in the next (2) photos.
In the second photo you can see the insert screwed onto the bolt with the nut behind it. Now
you turn the nut until everything bottoms out which you can see in the third photo. They worked
out real well...
These next (2) photos show all the inserts installed, which means the Abel Acme cylinder is completed
and ready for action. The second photo is a close up of what one of the inserts looks like
installed. One thing I liked about this type of insert is that I didn't have to buy any
special drills, taps, or installation tools to restore the original thread size of 3/4-10...
Well its time to get out some of the other parts for cleaning and restoring. Photo #1 is the valve
chest. Photo #2 is of (4) valves that came with the Abel Acme, which I have no idea which one is what
right now. The third photo is of the piston and connecting rod...
In these (4) photos I started cleaning the piston in preparation for getting it metal sprayed.
Photo #1, #2, & #3 show cleaning the piston in the parts washer and removal of the three
piston rings. The rings were so worn out and thin, that I could remove them by hand without the
aid of any tools. Photo #4 shows the piston and rod all cleaned up and ready to get metal
I am missing the intake valve assembly and gas mixer valve for the Abel Acme and was able to
barrow one from a friend who has a 20 HP Abel engine. Believe it or not the parts off of his
20 HP Abel engine are exactly the size parts I need so I wont have to do any scaling to make the
new parts. Photo #1 shows the parts I barrowed and am going to reproduce for my Abel Acme engine.
Photo #2 shows where on the valve chest the intake and gas mixer valve assemblies mount...
These (2) photos are of some of the material I am gathering to make the intake and gas mixer valve
assembly. Photo #1 shows a 1" thick plate I cut with the torch for the main mounting flange and
also a piece of tubing that will make up the housing for the intake valve assembly. Photo #2 shows
a piece of heavy wall tubing in the lathe that will be the main barrel for the intake valve
Well believe it or not I just got the piston back from being metal sprayed and turned to size. Also
the piston ring grooves were all trued up and recut. The piston really came out nice. If you look
close in the second photo you can see the material that was sprayed onto the O.D. of the piston. The
third photo shows the piston in the bore of the cylinder...
In these next (3) photos you can see some of the work going on for fabricating the intake and gas
mixer valve assemblies. Photo #1 shows some boring of the main barrel for the intake valve assembly.
Photo #2 shows some boring of the housing for the main assembly. Photo #3 is the turning of the
valve stem quide that will eventually be welded into the main barrel for the intake valve assembly.
Some of this will make more sence when the parts get closer to completion...
I welded (2) ears on the valve guide that will get welded into the main barrel for the intake valve
assembly. In the second photo I just faced off the front to true things up. The third photo shows
what the original intake valve assembly looks like...