4 Cycle, Single Valve Restoration
Mfg. 1898 Serial #107
See
Page 1, Page 2, Page 3, Page 4, Page 5, Page 6, Page 7, Page 8, Page 9, Page 10,
for more of the 10 HP Bovaird & Seyfang Restoration project.
Also, Be sure to check out the Single Valve drawing and explanation for the Bovaird & Seyfang...
One of the pivot holes in both governor balls was worn egg shaped. The first 2 photos show the holes filled. The white residue around the governor ball is from the flux used when filling the hole. I used the henrob 2000 tourch and just some plain steel rod for filling the hole. You can see the filler rod in photo #2 laying on the vise. Photo #3 shows the governor all back together and ready for action ...
To take a break in the action I started to do a little work on the valve chest. In photo #1 is the mixer portion of the valve chest which I have just finished cleaning up. The valve chest is in pretty good shape. Photo #2 was taken after a coat of primer was applied...
Now I need to make a guide bushing for the main valve. The first 2 photos are of the existing guide bushing which is an original I have barrowed from a friend. Photo #3 shows a piece of brass in the lathe getting the OD turned to size. Photo #4 shows the OD turned, end faced and chamfered, and the hole drilled and tapped for a 1/2-13 thread. Now to cut the part to length and turn it around in the lathe. Photo #5 shows the bore all completed...
Here in photo #1 the guide bushing is all completed. Photo #2 shows how the guide bushing is mounted to the main valve. Notice the nice brass lock nut...
The main body of the valve chest gets a good cleaning and its first coat of primer ...
With things moving right along I have started machining the main connecting rod bearings. In photo #1 I have clamped one half of the brass bearing in the vise on the shaper and have started squaring the surfaces up. Photo #2 is of the 2 inside surfaces of the bearing all cleaned up and flat. This is the surface the shims will mount between. Photo #3 is of the back side of the bearing half all cleaned up and flat. There is still a lot of machining to do before these bearings are completed. Most of the rest of the machining will be done in the lathe...
Hot, Babbitt Pouring Tip...
Well this might take a little explaining. Two friends of mine from Mich., Tom & John McCumbin, gave me this idea a couple of years ago. What it consist of is using jack screws to locate the crankshaft for pouring babbitt. You need to drill and tap (4) holes, which I did, and use 1/4-20 screws. This is the first time I have tried this and it seems to be working out real well. This has really made it easy to repeat the set/up of the crankshaft to the base. When pouring babbitt you have to break down the set/up to heat up the parts to get all the moisture cooked out. The jack screws let you place the shaft back to the same location. Photo #1 shows (2) brass flat head screws in one of the main bearing cradles. Brass is used for the jack screws as they will stay in the cradle even after the babbitt is poured and will not hurt the crankshaft during operation. Photo #2 shows both cradles and the (4) brass screws (2 in each cradle) making up the adjustable "V" blocks. Boy this is some idea. If anyone has poured babbitt before you know the difficult part is the set/up and repeating it after breaking it down. This jack screw idea works great! Photo #3 shows the dummy shaft in location sitting on the (4) brass jack crews. Photo #4 is a close up of one cradle with the dummy shaft sitting on the screws. Photo #5 shows the machined surfaces used to line the dummy shaft up to. The (2) machined parallel surfaces on the front of the engine base are where the cylinder mounts. The boring of the cylinder (at Joe Sykes') is being done from the mating surfaces. I just want to say thanks to Tom & John for this great idea. What a time saver and acurate way to set/up a crankshaft for pouring babbitt...
I need to do a little work on my dummy shaft before I pour the main bearings. The crankshaft on the pulley side has a taper warn in it. I need to duplicate it on the dummy shaft. In photo #1 you can see the shaft set/up in the lathe using a steady rest for support. The shaft is quite heavy. It is 3 1/4" in diameter and 30" long. You can see on the end of the shaft where I started grinding the taper. Note: I am using a dummy shaft for (2) reasons. (1) It is to hard to keep lifting the crankshaft and flywheels in and out of the engine base for setting up and pouring the babbitt. (2) There is nothing on the crankshaft to measure to. It needs to be set up to the cylinder bore or mount and on the actual crankshaft everything to measure to is hard to get at. Photo #2 After a lot of grinding and measuring the dummy shaft is ready to be removed from the lathe. Photo #3 shows the dummy shaft in the bearing cradles approximatly where it will be located for pouring. Now I need to take the measurements and get it all set/up...
This photo shows the main bearing brasses all squared up and ready for the through holes that will hold the brasses together...
Well here I am getting ready to pour the babbitt for the main bearings. These (2) photos show a dry run through the set/up with out the dumb dumb on to prevent leaks...
Next step is to get the babbitt heated up to temp. and to get all the moisture cooked out of the parts the babbitt will come in contact with. Photo #1 shows my friend Stiles heating up the babbitt and photo #2 shows him cooking the moisture out of the dummy shaft...
Everything is ready for the pour. In photo #1 Stiles is putting the finishing touches on the dumb dumb so we don't have any leaks and photo #2 shows everything being hot, sealed, and sooted up for the pour. Notice how black the dummy shaft is. It has been sooted up with the acetylene tourch so the babbitt wont stick to the shaft...
The pour is completed! It was hard to get a photo of the pour because there wasn't enough hands. It is very dangerous pouring babbitt and required both Stiles and myself, full attention. If you look at this photo close you can see the babbitt poured up to the top of the dummy shaft. The pour went very well with no leaks or blow outs. Now we will let the whole thing cool for about 30 minutes and then break the set/up down...
Wow! I can't believe how nice these bearings came out. The photos don't do the pour justice. These (2) photos show all the dumb dumb, clamps, and dummy shaft all removed. Next I will start trimming the flash off the tops of the new bearings where the pour was done from and clean up any burrs...
See
Page 1, Page 2, Page 3, Page 4, Page 5, Page 6, Page 7, Page 8, Page 9, Page 10,
for more of the 10 HP Bovaird & Seyfang Restoration project.
Also, Be sure to check out the Single Valve drawing and explanation for the Bovaird & Seyfang...
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