Also, Be sure to check out the
drawing and explanation for the Bovaird & Seyfang...
I wasn't happy with the knife edge on the latch arm so if you look close in Photo
#1 you can see a beed of weld I put on the bracket to form a new knife edge. Photo
#2 is of one of the set/ups in the vertical mill for cleaning up the weld. Photo
#3 shows the new knife edge after milling the angle. The edge is towards the top
of the photo...
One of the pivot holes in both governor balls was worn egg shaped. The first 2
photos show the holes filled. The white residue around the governor ball is from
the flux used when filling the hole. I used the henrob 2000 tourch and just some
plain steel rod for filling the hole. You can see the filler rod in photo #2 laying
on the vise. Photo #3 shows the governor all back together and ready for action
To take a break in the action I started to do a little work on the valve
chest. In photo #1 is the mixer portion of the valve chest which I have just
finished cleaning up. The valve chest is in pretty good shape. Photo #2 was
taken after a coat of primer was applied...
Now I need to make a guide bushing for the main valve. The first 2 photos are of
the existing guide bushing which is an original I have barrowed from a friend.
Photo #3 shows a piece of brass in the lathe getting the OD turned to size. Photo
#4 shows the OD turned, end faced and chamfered, and the hole drilled and tapped
for a 1/2-13 thread. Now to cut the part to length and turn it around in the lathe.
Photo #5 shows the bore all completed...
Here in photo #1 the guide bushing is all completed. Photo #2 shows how the guide
bushing is mounted to the main valve. Notice the nice brass lock nut...
The main body of the valve chest gets a good cleaning and its first coat of primer
With things moving right along I have started machining the main connecting rod
bearings. In photo #1 I have clamped one half of the brass bearing in the vise on
the shaper and have started squaring the surfaces up. Photo #2 is of the 2 inside
surfaces of the bearing all cleaned up and flat. This is the surface the shims
will mount between. Photo #3 is of the back side of the bearing half all cleaned
up and flat. There is still a lot of machining to do before these bearings are
completed. Most of the rest of the machining will be done in the lathe...
Hot, Babbitt Pouring Tip...
Well this might take a little explaining. Two friends of mine from Mich.,
Tom & John McCumbin, gave me this idea a couple of years ago. What it
consist of is using jack screws to locate the crankshaft for pouring babbitt.
You need to drill and tap (4) holes, which I did, and use 1/4-20 screws.
This is the first time I have tried this and it seems to be working out real
well. This has really made it easy to repeat the set/up of the crankshaft to the
base. When pouring babbitt you have to break down the set/up to heat up the
parts to get all the moisture cooked out. The jack screws let you place the shaft
back to the same location. Photo #1 shows (2) brass flat head screws in one
of the main bearing cradles. Brass is used for the jack screws as they will
stay in the cradle even after the babbitt is poured and will not hurt the
crankshaft during operation. Photo #2 shows both cradles and the (4) brass
screws (2 in each cradle) making up the adjustable "V" blocks. Boy this is
some idea. If anyone has poured babbitt before you know the difficult part
is the set/up and repeating it after breaking it down. This jack screw idea
works great! Photo #3 shows the dummy shaft in location sitting on the (4)
brass jack crews. Photo #4 is a close up of one cradle with the dummy shaft
sitting on the screws. Photo #5 shows the machined surfaces used to line the
dummy shaft up to. The (2) machined parallel surfaces on the front of the engine
base are where the cylinder mounts. The boring of the cylinder (at Joe Sykes')
is being done from the mating surfaces. I just want to say thanks to Tom &
John for this great idea. What a time saver and acurate way to set/up a
crankshaft for pouring babbitt...
I need to do a little work on my dummy shaft before I pour the main bearings.
The crankshaft on the pulley side has a taper warn in it. I need to duplicate
it on the dummy shaft. In photo #1 you can see the shaft set/up in the lathe
using a steady rest for support. The shaft is quite heavy. It is 3 1/4" in
diameter and 30" long. You can see on the end of the shaft where I started
grinding the taper. Note: I am using a dummy shaft for (2) reasons. (1) It
is to hard to keep lifting the crankshaft and flywheels in and out of the engine
base for setting up and pouring the babbitt. (2) There is nothing on the crankshaft
to measure to. It needs to be set up to the cylinder bore or mount and on the
actual crankshaft everything to measure to is hard to get at. Photo #2 After
a lot of grinding and measuring the dummy shaft is ready to be removed from the
lathe. Photo #3 shows the dummy shaft in the bearing cradles approximatly where
it will be located for pouring. Now I need to take the measurements and get it
This photo shows the main bearing brasses all squared up and ready for the
through holes that will hold the brasses together...
Well here I am getting ready to pour the babbitt for the main bearings. These
(2) photos show a dry run through the set/up with out the dumb dumb on to
Next step is to get the babbitt heated up to temp. and to get all the moisture
cooked out of the parts the babbitt will come in contact with. Photo #1 shows
my friend Stiles heating up the babbitt and photo #2 shows him cooking the
moisture out of the dummy shaft...
Everything is ready for the pour. In photo #1 Stiles is putting the finishing
touches on the dumb dumb so we don't have any leaks and photo #2 shows everything
being hot, sealed, and sooted up for the pour. Notice how black the dummy shaft is.
It has been sooted up with the acetylene tourch so the babbitt wont stick to the
The pour is completed! It was hard to get a photo of the pour because there wasn't
enough hands. It is very dangerous pouring babbitt and required both Stiles and myself,
full attention. If you look at this photo close you can see the babbitt poured up to the
top of the dummy shaft. The pour went very well with no leaks or blow outs. Now we will
let the whole thing cool for about 30 minutes and then break the set/up down...
Wow! I can't believe how nice these bearings came out. The photos don't do the pour
justice. These (2) photos show all the dumb dumb, clamps, and dummy shaft all removed. Next
I will start trimming the flash off the tops of the new bearings where the pour was done
from and clean up any burrs...